I am currently attempting to install an audio amp into my coach. It is my understanding, in a normal situation the amp would be powered directly off of the car battery. What I would like to do is have it dual powered (chassis battery while driving) and hooked to the housing somehow when docked. In my current setup we do not have any house batteries, only getting our power directly from the old progressive dynamic converter. I realize I could just power it from the chassis batteries but I know it will drain the batteries. Any advice?

Secondly, in the engine compartment there is a 4 post solenoid

A few years back I had a guy come out and work on some plumbing and a possible parasitic drain issue...at that time he showed us a way of charging the chassis batteries


...how safe is this? I've thought of running a wore between the two post connected by a toggle switch inside the RV. Also, how does it work exactly....i have tried for several days to trace down the wiring to see if i could figure it out with no luck. Any help with this would be appreciated.

The yellow wire from above attaches to where the finger is pointed

I am sure one of our electrical geniuses will come up with a solution for you.

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:
Hey Crazyshakespheare, it appears that you need to pay Photobucket $400 per year.... or give it to Bill NY and put your photos in Bill NY's account.

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I do not recall if we have created a folder for you from you data tag. What is your data tag number? I can check to see if there is a folder for you.

Did I miss something?....ive been away from the site for a little while due to work so I might have missed a few things

74091569MC26A CPL374V319090

The device you pictured is a solenoid relay, essentially a high current magnetic switch. They are used for many functions: remote disconnects for power circuits, starter circuit relays, and battery connectors to allow "jump starting" by connecting both sets of batteries while cranking.

It appears that you have pictured the latter purpose. Apparently the coach batteries are connected to one large post and the crank batteries to the other. Activating the relay will connect both batteries together. (The same can be done with the jumper wire you showed.)

I am confused why you are doing this since you apparently don't have coach batteries...

If you have no coach batteries why not connect the progressive dynamics directly to the crank batteries to keep them charged while parked? This could be done with a heavier jumper or just connect all the wires to one post. As long as you have shore power the PD charger will keep things charged and running.

good luck, keep us posted

(Last summer PhotoBucket changed policy without notice. In order to share photos to a website like ours, you must pay $400 to allow this. Personal PB accounts will allow direct viewing on the PB site but cannot be forwarded to another sites. For this reason, only the users (like our Bill NY) who have paid the ransom can do this. If you have pics in your own PB account, they will need to be copied to the BM uploads to be able to display here. Just when you thought PB was irritating enough...)

I believe the photo link can be edited to the [IMG] format and then they will display... (put [IMG] in front of the http and [/IMG] at the end)

As a response I was curious. Why do you need a audio amp when camping at a quiet peaceful campground? A friend of mine used to amplify the sounds of nature to his home with microphones in the woods. Song birds were amplified in the house. Just curious. I am just old and past the age of testing my eardrums.

Steve...thanks for the information. At one time the coach did have two housing batteries. Just before we purchased her someone ripped out the generator and housing batteries. (did a real job on the electrical) Also, the original owener added all kinds of electrical elem.ents that left the wiring a mess. It's been an uphill battle that has taken me years to get this far with.

If I am unable to get it hooked up to the converter do you think it would be safe to just bridge those two posts on the solenoid to get the charge?

Wow PB! Everyone trying to make money on everything. Those photos are [IMG] but I'm guessing you mean from Bill's account.

Kevin...double checked and that # is good.

To answer your question...im adding the amp to add speakers. Due to the limitation of my head unit it's the most economical and safe way to do so. I agree with you about enjoying the surroundings sonits def. not about blowing your park neighbor away with audio.

That's for all y'all help....ill take anymore advice people can give!

My sympathy to you with your wiring. I have spent a good deal of time trying to figure out amatuer wiring and replacing it. It is amazing how bad some of the cobble jobs are. Unreliable at best, fire hazard often. Most of the time end up replacing it with something that "looks right" and is wired correctly.

It should be OK to put a bridge wire there. Be sure it is as large as the others so it can carry full power if needed. Your coach loads will drain the crank battery only if the PD is not plugged in or is overloaded. Should keep the crank battery topped up all the time.

I've never understood why people wouldn't just take the time to to wire things the correct way vs the alternative.

Thanks for the advice. I think we will finally be back into some warmer temps this weekend so I might like around in the converter...if not it looks.like I will be running a switch and wiring to that solenoid.

Thanks for your help Kevin!

The third photo I sent never showed in the folder

Some of my photos never show up. Other times I will send several and all but the first one show up right away. The missing one may arrive hours later...or not... the joy of PB use... just send em again later.

quote:

If you have no coach batteries why not connect the progressive dynamics directly to the crank batteries to keep them charged while parked? This could be done with a heavier jumper or just connect all the wires to one post. As long as you have shore power the PD charger will keep things charged and running.

The older (late '80s and before) PD converters were dual output; when connected to shore power, a DPNC relay routed the 12VDC output to the battery via a charger section, while a second output powered the house 12VDC circuits.

When shore power was disconnected, the relay opened, and the batteries powered the house 12VDC circuits.

Modern ones are single-output, their output being always connected to the batteries.

After spending the majority of the day tracing wire down. I finally figured out the heavy gauge yellow wire on the top post runs back to the positive battery output on the PD-710 converter. If I did the testing correct I think we might have a bad solenoid. Makes sense why is need a bypass to charge the chassis batteries.

Only issue is getting the correct solenoid because there isn't a single marking on it....im thinking a 200 amp continuous one?

quote:

Originally posted by Crazyshakespeare13:
After spending the majority of the day tracing wire down. ...

Only issue is getting the correct solenoid because there isn't a single marking on it....im thinking a 200 amp continuous one?

If you can disconnect and remove the existing, take it to neighborhood auto parts store. They will provide current substitute. not a unique item.