How hard is it to replace the black water waste valve(shut off).
With both the blackwater & the grey water shut off there is a very slight drip every so often.
When I looked around the black valve I can see a crack in the plastic at one of the four bolts, however it is not leaking there only thru the discharge tube.
If this is a fairly easy job I'll replace both the black & grey waste valves.

Jim

1985 Barth Regency 35 ft MCC
8.2 Detroit 225 HP Allison 4 speed

The most common make of waste water valves is a single unit sandwiched between two plastic fittings, & held together by four bolts. Replacing it is easy, but if the crack you noted is in one of the fittings that holds it, that fitting will be cemented in, & replacing it is a bigger project.

It is possible that a bit of toilet paper, or other foreign matter is lodged in the valve seat. If so, removing that might allow the valve to seat completely, & solve the minor leak.

I would recommend that any dump valve of unknown age or suspect condition be replaced when it is convenient. New valve, SS bolts, brass nuts, no rush. Way better than an on the road problem. If you have frozen bolts, it is way better to deal with them at home, where you have a compressor, die grinder, etc. And lots of hot water for washing up.

In 2008 we had to replace the sewer hose connector because we sheared off 2 of the 4 little pins with a tree root. We also decided to replace the two valves while we were at it.

Since the discharge tube from the black water tank was now a slightly different length because of the retrofit, we could only get one of the 2 valves to line up at a time so we cut the tube going from the grey waster tank and reattached the two ends with a 2 1/2" or 3"rubber plumbing connector (the kind with a hose clamp on each end). It not only solved the problem of the misalignment but it made it easier to do repairs since the two tanks are independent of each other and acted as a vibration damper between the tanks and the bus since they were no longer connected by a single hard plastic "Y".

When we had to cut our toilet downtube to make a repair I used a 4" rubber connector instead of a cemented coupler. Now if I need to remove the toilet box for repairs I just unscrew the top clamp.

Carl,

Thanks- that may be an idea for mine as the two waste valves are right next to each other( very tight). I was wondering what I could do if I had problems trying to get the black water one free.
The tanks are flushed and cleaned and I am just studying the possible problems I may have.
As olroy stated, there just may be something lodged keeping the waste vavle from seating properly. Hoping it is something simple & easy-- however I know it is a Barth!

Thanks
Jim