I just put new headers on my 454 and I would like to replace the long dip stick with something that I could use if I raised the engine compartment lid inside of the coach. Has anyone done that? If so, what did you use? I have my old stock exhaust manifolds and they are like new with only 9000 miles on them. If anyone would like them I will send them for the cost of the shipping.

You can go to your local auto parts store and ask them for a standard replacement for a 454 that should solve your problem.If that fails you could always try a boneyard,but you never know if someone had replaced theirs with an improper one . If you have a local auto zone I would try them first.

I did it. A shorter tube and dipstick from a car or truck fits. It is best to buy a new tube, seal and stick from the dealer.

After installing the tube, check the stick by leveling the coach and hot draining all the oil. Then pour in 5 quarts. Wait 10 minutes. That is your "add" level. Then add one more quart. That is your "full" level.


I shortened both my tube and dipstick to get it out of the way. You can do anything you want as long as the level lines are correct. I made my own lines with a file.

So how do you like the headers? Got any hill climb numbers?

[This message has been edited by bill h (edited June 07, 2005).]

I'm going to fire it off and try it after I replace the dipstick. I had to redo some of the wiring to the starter. We have this tire dealer called Les Schwab arond here and the helped me with the connection pipe between the headers and the existing pipe. They are sure a good outfit. I hope that the cooling is better than before. I think that anything would help.

Dennis, I like to use two O ring seals where the tube enters the pan. Really clean the pan fitting first. I leave a little space between the seals and put some red silicone seal between them. On installation, things come together and a better seal results. And then some red silicone seal around the top of the connection. And space the tube evenly between the header tubes.

If some of this sounds like overkill, it's from a background of absolutely HATING oil in the bilge of a boat. Just one drop can make such a mess. I always painted my bilges white.

Don't even ask about Jags or Corvairs in the driveway. Or Brit bikes. Or early R2800s.

I never EVER question billh but I have to say my 454 takes at least 8 quarts for a change. Larger oil pan? I change it myself on level ground and I'm pretty sure the stick and tube is factory. It is under the doghouse on the right side of the engine on my Euro. I'm going out to look at the book and see what it says, so stay tuned.

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28

Danny, my scanner is agreeable today, so here is the page from the Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/billat908/RVP30oillevelondipstick.jpg

Move your cursor around the lower right hand corner of the page for an "enlarge" icon.

The 5 and 6 quarts mentioned are just for dipstick checking. An oil and filter change together will typically use at least a pint to 2 quarts more, depending on the size of the filter.

I should mention here that it is good idea to check any 454 dipstick for accuracy. There was a spate of 454 failures that were traced to incorrect dipsticks from the factory. Don't remember if it was Chevrolet's fault or the MH manufacturer's fault, though. One friend was high in the Sierras when his engine ate itself.



[This message has been edited by bill h (edited June 07, 2005).]

Bill, thanks a ton and I have printed a copy of this info sheet that will be duly filed in the Barth Bible. One question. Could the fact that I have been misreading the dipstick be a contributing factor in the ever present leak from the oil filter area? I have cleaned and checked the surface when changing the filter but it always seems to leak down the outside of the filter. I know how to tighten and lube the ring etc. so I wonder why the leak persists. Thanks for the info and take care, Danny

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28

Could very well be. Too much oil increases the crankcase pressure. That's why I always change my own oil. I know how much is supposed to go in it. I have a remote AMSOIL set up on my Barth and with all the extra lines and two filters, the capacity is 8 quarts. I have seen too much oil blow out rear main seals as well.
Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Zeeff:
Bill, thanks a ton and I have printed a copy of this info sheet that will be duly filed in the Barth Bible. One question. Could the fact that I have been misreading the dipstick be a contributing factor in the ever present leak from the oil filter area? I have cleaned and checked the surface when changing the filter but it always seems to leak down the outside of the filter. I know how to tighten and lube the ring etc. so I wonder why the leak persists. Thanks for the info and take care, Danny

Danny, are you sure the leak is coming from the filter gasket surface? Are you using Fram filters? In serious cases, I disconnect the fan belt to allow me to see a leak as it forms. The air blast from the fan can really interfere with seeing a leak grow. Really cleaning off the filter adapter and then packing tissue up there might show a leak you can't see with your eyes. I have also used Dyecheck white spray.
Does yours have an engine oil cooler?

Thanks Bill, as soon as this storm gets past I'll check out your suggestions and let you know. Boy! 10 days in and we have a full blown storm already! It's not too terrible yet but it's rainy and yucky and it's gonna get a lot worse by tomorrow. We're about 75 miles south of Tampa on the gulf coast.
BTW, through all last years storms and some really violent gullywashers this year the 81 Euro hasn't leaked a drop. [Knock on the cherry cabinets wood]

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28