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electric kwikee step problem
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"5+ Years of Active Membership"
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 9/11
Picture of Jim & Barb
posted
OK! I know this has been gone over several times.

My steps are not working again. They are going down ok, however when you try to get them to go up it seems they try but just won't go. I flip the switch several times and you can hear them click.
Yes everything is lub'ed and they work fine when disconnected. Freely moves in and out.
I checked all connections and ground, all ok.
I pulled the motor and ran it off the system and it ran forward and backward ok, however it does not seem to run very fast.
Do you think it is a weak motor or something going wrong in the white control box? I can't seem to solve this one. Once before I thought about just running a wire direct to a switch and bypassing the white box which controls the steps going up & down with the opening and closing of the door.
Any suggestions? head bang

Jim
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Port Charlotte Florida USA | Member Since: 06-08-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
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This is another example of why power to significant loads should not be run through switches. Like the headlights, you will, (I think) see a lower than 12.5v at the motor if you attach a voltmeter and have someone flip the switch. You should have a switch at the door to manually deploy the steps, another on the dash for the driver to control the steps and the third being the magnetic switch inside the door frame that closes when you open the door and puts 12v to the motor. Try all three places and see what your get for voltage. Then considre mouting a 12v relay somewhere convenient to the motor and let the switches activate the relay. Run a good 10-12 awg wire from a 12v bus that is not connected to the ignition switch to the relay. When you flip the switches or open the door the relay will draw less than .5 amps but connect the full 12.5v to the motor. If the motor is good, this will solve your problem and reduce the load on all the switches in the circuit.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 9/11
Picture of Jim & Barb
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Tom,

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be testing each area to see what happens.
I do like the idea of getting it off the ignition switch.

Jim
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Port Charlotte Florida USA | Member Since: 06-08-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 6/17
Picture of Richard_Muise
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Had the same problem. The voltage was great but the motor was just plain tired. Replaced the motor. Problem solved.


R.P.Muise 1994 Breakaway/Cummins 5.9/Allison transmission/Spartan Chassis
 
Posts: 662 | Location: Hampden, Massachusetts | Member Since: 10-13-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 9/11
Picture of Jim & Barb
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I bought a new motor for the steps. A 1990 Ford Crown Vic.(suggested on the Barth site) right front power window motor.
I decided no matter what the electrical imput, I needed a new motor.
Pulled the old one off and the two did not match.
Before taking the new one back I put the old one under load off the the steps and it seemed to run fine. I took the new one back and got my refund and the guy at the counter said the old one looks like a old model Ford electric motor.
When I got home I decided to take the motor apart
(I read somewhere on the Barth site the inside can glaze over). I lightly clean everything using carb spray. I lub'ed all the bearing parts and put it all back together.
WOW! what a differnce. The steps work just like new and fast.
One warning putting it back together, keeping the brushes in place, was a real job.
Hope this info may help someone else.

Jim Smiler
 
Posts: 457 | Location: Port Charlotte Florida USA | Member Since: 06-08-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Captain Doom
Picture of Rusty
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While you're "in the mood", check the power and ground wires - my power had 4 butt connectors in 3', and the ground had 3 in 2' - all deteriorated.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
 
Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/12
Picture of Don in Niagara
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Finally got tired of cleaning or replacing grd wires and other electrics on ours and bought a complete motor and controller kit. Kind of expensive but now everything is new except the actual step itself. Considering the use it gets day in and day out it was worth it.
No more problems in nearly a year, and the amber light even comes on every time the step comes out. It had been removed from the step by the p o for some reason.
While the whole unit was off the coach I also cleaned and lubed all the step parts that fold or move. They have a hard life under there.
Don


1990 Regency 34'
Cummins 6CTA 8.3 240hp
Spartan Chassis,
4 speed Allison MT643
 
Posts: 630 | Location: Niagara Falls, Canada | Member Since: 11-09-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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