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I'm looking to clean up some popped rivets on my 94 Breakaway. Does anyone know what the diameter and grip strength is for those rivets? My buddy suggested the best rivet to use for this application is a Cherry Max rivet (he's a mechanical type and pilot) but said a stainless rivet should work with a standard rivet gun unless the rivet diameter is wider than ⅛". Any advise? | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
Cherry Max rivets are indeed strong, aircraft grade. Overkill for most coach applications. Stainless steel is also more than needed for most chassis and skin work. Barth used aluminum rivets on most of their fabrications. On my side trim they used steel mandrel rivets. Over time the steel corrodes and leaves the aluminum pitted. I replaced almost all of them with aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels. I used 3/16 in diameter, 1/2 long. Many did not have to be drilled out, the heads were gone. The rivets are hidden behind the trim strip so I used plain hollow heads. https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...1087061/m/4793969397 Depending on location you may want blind rivets, or those with smooth heads. Lots of choices. (I have final photos but waiting for PhotoBucket so I can finish the thread.) 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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The rivets I’m looking at replacing are holding the front face of the coach ( Rivets needed are on sides and front of coach) so looks to be beefier or stronger rivets in those areas. So size and material recommendations for these? I did read your thread on your trim work and the number of rivets you had to drill out and then replace. Reminds me of when I took off some panels in my house when I first bought it. Previous owner literally glued ⅓” thick panels to the wall but didn’t stop there. They also nailed in 3” or so nails into the studs. Not every 12” or so but every 3” or so. Took me forever to remove each panel. Fortunately it was only in one room, haha! | ||||
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