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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
I have Hadley air horns on my "92" Barth Regency. They haven't worked since bought the coach last year. I'm just now getting around to repairing that problem. There were other more important fixes up till now. Does anyone know the location of the switch that powers the air valve? Or better yet a trouble shooting method. The electric horn works well. Bill G. [This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited June 28, 2004).] | ||
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1/11 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Bill, Have you gone to the Hadley page. They talk about how to clean up the solenoid. The regular horn, and air horn are the same button. Short touch 'beeps', longer horn actuation lets the air horns go. Is the air pump making good pressure, need almost 100 lbs to operate. ------------------ On the road. 89 Barth Regal 32 Runs like a Deere New Hampshire | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Jack, I never really pushed the horn for more than a second or two. Since I'm unfamiliar with air horns, I assumed they would trigger just as quickly as the electric ones. It makes sense that there would be some hesitation however. I'll hold down the horn button for a little lomger and see what happens. I think that the solenoid may need work or replacement however. Nothing has been done to them since 1992. Thanks for your suggestion, I did read the solenoid cleaning procedure on the Hadley site. Bill G. | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
I discovered that the horns do work, but not well. I don't think they have been blown in four or five years. I had to lay on the horn button for a few seconds before they sounded. I blasted them a couple of times and then they would not sound, about ten minutes later they sounded again and then they would not. I think I need to trace the system and check all the components. I'm also going to clean the solenoid and then split out the system so that I ca isolate the electric from the air systems. This way I can choose which horn I wish to use. Here is an interesting option on a solenoid replacement from a post on RV.NET. "If you need a replacement solenoid valve - don't just replace it with the same "junk" that all horn manufacturers use. Go to AIM Racing Supply (WWW. Truckin.com) in Mesa, AZ. and buy a precision made NOS valve made by Parker Aircraft Supply. It is part # AIRVAL-PARK38-2 which has a 5/8ths orifice and flows a lot of air. Price is $69.00 plus a few dollars shipping. The inlet/outlet holes are 3/8ths so you need to buy from them or your local store, 2 bushings to bush it down to your existing 1/4 in. male fittings. You will not regret this change out when you see its 300 lb. working load and the precision with which it is made. Since NOS is highly combustible, it has to be good." ------------------ Bill & Georgene Goodwin 92 Regency 36ft 300hp Cummins Gillig Chassis | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Has anyone worked on their air solenoid? Where was it located? | |||
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1/11 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
I do have a picture of the setup, but on a CD some place in the coach. The solenoid is attached to the storage tank, (about 6" in diameter and maybe 8 or so inches long. Mine, being on a gas engine coach is mounted just behind the bottom of the radiator. Diesel is another story, and I can't help you there, unless you want to swap for a while. Can dig out the photo and post it if you want to see what your looking for. Still at Jeff Busby NP on the Trace. Just found out what it means to really be retired, and traveling with no schedule. This place is wonderful, so I stayed. ------------------ On the road. 89 Barth Regal 32 Runs like a Deere New Hampshire | |||
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1st month member |
I've replaced my air tank, compressor, and solenoid. My tank was full of water and rust and the solenoid was really crudded up. I was able to get the my old solenoid to work and it was pretty well made. The new tank has is teflon coated on the inside according to Hadley. On my Regal the tank/compressor is located behind the passenger side headlight buckets which can be accessed through the grill opening. Just remove the radiator recovery bottle and cut the bracket in half and bend it out of the way. ------------------ Eddie Chevalier '85 Barth Regal 28' P-30 454 '91 Honda Accord/'87 Yamaha YSR 50 Toads | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Thanks for the advice. I figured it would be tucked in up front. I haven't had time to really look into it as yet, but will soon. Jack, If the picture is available it would be interesting to me to check it out. Don't rush to post, I'm headed out tomorow (7/11) to the Lake George area to do some cycling with a friend. We'll be climbing up and down the mountains in the region for a week. Bill G [This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited July 10, 2004).] | |||
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1/11 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
OK I'll dig it out. Right now I running on dual batteries - so no CD - Tomorow I move out to Tupolo MS and should have Electric to get my batteries back on track. Trees have precluded any solar charging. ------------------ On the road. 89 Barth Regal 32 Runs like a Deere New Hampshire | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Thanks Jack. I'll be out of touch for a week. I hope your enjoying your travels. Bill G | |||
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1/11 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
These are the pictures that show the Air Horn setup. The view is from directly under the unit looking up. On my Barth, this system is located under and to rear of the radiator. This is the view of the Vacuum compressor unit – on the right. This is the view of the storage tank on left and the air solenoid attached to it. ------------------ On the road. 89 Barth Regal 32 Runs like a Deere New Hampshire | |||
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