Doot, I must have watched a bad video which said to put the clip in the side, not the front. Got it out, starting okay but still not convinced i don't have an issue with the wiring so if anyone has a diagram of the harness and why I have a secont pink wire spliced to it I would love it.

The key cylinder removal varies by application. The ones in the steering column are far more common. Those require the release from the side, etc. There were several variations since our old panel mounted switches.

As for the diagram, ask and you shall receive:

1986 P30 wiring

http://truckroadservice.com/ba...ts/86_P30_wiring.pdf

I really wish people who don't know about wiring wouldn't cobble things up. I have spent much time redoing poor workmanship. Good luck figuring out what has been messed up.

Thanks. I knew it was somewhere but couldn't come up with it. Now I figure I might as well get a new switch harness when I come across an autoparts store that has one in stock then solder everything up right.

Any thoughts on a transmission that doesn't like shifting into 3rd until it gets warm. It simply goes into a neutral or bounces back to 2nd. Transmission was freshly rebuilt in the last 25k or so. Has always been hard to find drive. There wasn't a bushing on the linkage when I got it. I assumed it either fell out or a PO decided it went in better without it. I put one on and adjusted everything. Did an oil change before we left on it and the oil wasn't disgustingly horrible. Fluid still looks nice and red and smells as it should. Once it is warmed up it has no issues. Just kind of a pain driving in 2nd until you get her warm. Off to Lassen Volcanic NP in the am. Sadly the road is still snowed shut so it will be a limited visit. Gonna try to convince my daughter to climb and ski back down.

Soldered connections are the gold standard for me. Good luck

The shifting of the trans is controlled by the valve body in the trans. (Assuming the linkage is set right)

The main pump developes regulated pressure in the main lines to operate the clutches, etc. Also provides pressure to the shift valves. If any of the pressures are wrong, or any dirt/restriction in the valve body you will have shift isssues. Ford C6 trans are very prone to cold shift trouble, the TH400 not so much.

You mentioned the trans was rebuilt. Has the shifting problem always been there? If so I think they screwed something up.

The valve body is bolted between the trans and the pan. It can be removed without dropping the trans. Maybe needs adjustment or repair...

Ugh, bigger problems today then the tranny or the wiring. One of my front bearings went out. Of course I am 300 miles away from where I need to be tomorrow. It is just clicking, a little play but not a ton. Plan is to drive it tomorrow up to hood with a stop where O'riley's claims they will have a new hub in the morning. I did get what I believe to be the bearings grease, a 1 1/4" socket as that is what the parts guy said the nut was and a inner seal today. These don't have an i beam up front do they? Don't remember seeing one but I am not so up on that type of suspension. This is only my second vehicle without an independent rear (minus trailers of course). I thought about despite being frowned upon putting an outer in tonight but couldn't figure out how to get the dust cap off. Any suggstions. Kind of limited on tools, My one pair of pliers didn't do the trick. On a positive note while looking for my 1 1/8th socket for the wheel lugs I figured out where my antifreeze has been going. Seems I have a small leak somewhere under my fridge (where the line for the heat and water heater go). Looks like I will also be doing a cut and splice of those lines underneath in my week off while my daughter is at ski camp. Hasn't rained since New Orleans but for some reason today it was pouring on me.

Ah yes, the things you have worked on, and the things you will work on... Wheel bearings call for grease about every 8-10 miles, a nuisance if you drive a lot.

In my brake thread it shows bearings, etc. There is a hole in the hub that allows you to drive the hub cab off from the backside.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...413963477#5413963477

good luck.

So you say from the backside do you mean a hole in the side of the hub itself (behind the wheel studs? How big is the hole? Will a standard #2 screw driver work? Our next stop is 45 miles from the nearest autoparts store. Want to have everthing I may need prior to getting there.

Yep, behind the studs. (Look at my 3rd photo, you can see the hole about 2 oclock) Screwdriver should work!

Well we got home Saturday evening from a 49 day trip covering 12500 miles or so (don't have an exact number as the odo went blank around Chicago). Did 14 mountain passes over 10k feet, highest was 12500 or so. Here are the issues we hit
1. Starter
2. Front wheel bearing developed a ton of play (replaced the hub and bearings as the hub had a bit of wear to it)
3. Leak from the aux heat box or line that I just bipassed for the trip.
4. Found out the heat doesn't work when on the batteries (think it doesn't get enough juice)
5. Bad gas in Wyoming led to a clogged filter and either my wife or daughter misplaced my wrenches so we lucked out as a nice mobile repair guy brought out the wrenched for $40.
6. Lost the exterior cover to the fridge (Camping World in Pheonix hooked us up with a new one with a drive to their supplier but of course it doesn't match the paint job).
7. AC cover broke apart and is partially scattered across the rust belt.
8. Starter wire (that I had asked to have replaced when the starter was done as it was old, insualtion cracked and some strands broken) I assumed they had done it and that our hot starting was ignition switch or wiring issues but am now convinced it is just the starter wire. Well around Chicago the bolt holding the weird round connecter loosed and it was grounding on the exhaust (dash would go out over bumps) By the time I got pulled over it had welded a hole in the exhaust and I think that is what killed the odo. Still need to replace the wire but I at least bought it for if it wouldn't start. Didn't want to attempt if I didn't need to so close to home.
9. The speedo cable set up that has an open top with a connector for a speedo after the electronics lost the tape to keep it quite and let to my beleiving the bearing was toast. After replacing the bearing and still having a box of rocks noise I relized I probably could have repacked and tightened the bearing but still would have needed the hub for inspection.

Probably averaged 7.5 mpg as I drive too fast (mid 60-70 on the highways. Did a fair bit of nasty back road driving including a dirt road for 20 miles in New Mexico that the GPS prefered over a real road.

Between 3 oil changes and added oil we went thru 35 quarts of oil (including one change on the generator).

Now I need to figure out the odo for inspection, get the exhaust hole welded, replace the starter wire and do the tranny and rear dif fluids for inspection at the end of Sept. Great trip and nothing too serious for the miles we went.

Bravo! A good long trip indeed. Sounds like you are gaining on it. As we have said here before, Barth coaches were built well so you can usually fix them faster than they break.

Good luck with the latest projects. Keep us posted!

The odometer will be the kicker. Best I can tell the cluster is the chrysler digital dash from the ever so no longer in this world Chrysler Laser circa 1985-86. Of course I think I am required to have one for inspection so I'll have to come up with something.