Go to... | Start A New Topic | Search | Notify | Tools | Reply To This Topic |
"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
| ||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
From the Summit site: "8800 and 8900 series spark plug wires have a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser and vehicle. 4000, 5000, 7000, 8000, and 9000 series spark plug wires are warranted for 5 years or 50,000 miles from the date of purchase to the original purchaser and vehicle." I find it passing strange that they guarantee the 8800 series, which are rated at 550 degrees for life, but guarantee the 9000 series, rated at 1000 degrees for only FIVE years. My coach came with 8871 leads, and I added Thermo Tec heat sleeves. I would not operate a P30 without the sleeves, particularly on the right rear cylinder. The leads show no deterioration after 5 summers. There is one more issue on plug wires: Many engines have slight exhaust leaks where the manifold meets the head. This may be only at high temps or power usage. A jet of exhaust air can damage almost any wire. Wiping your wires with clean tissue can detect any evidence of exhaust leakage. Your RH rear leads will last longer if you install the splash shield/air flow management thingy on the right side. You will also have fewer cracked manifolds and sheared bolts. | |||
|
8/09 |
I need to buy new spark plug wires for my '84 Regal 25' with a Chevy 454. The engine was replaced with a create engine in 1995, so I guess you would say I have a 1995 engine in a 1984 Barth. I am just looking for a cheap set to see if I can even get the engine started, then will upgrade from there to something better. I don't want to sink $150 or more into plug wires if the engine won't even start. Here are some of the ones I was looking at Summit Racing I have the heat shields intact on the engine also Any recommendations would be much appreciated? Also, I don't have my manual yet, so what spark plugs should I get? Thanks guys -Curtis "The greatest good you can do for another is not just share your riches but to reveal to him his own." Benjamin Disraeli | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
A 95 engine has TBI, no fuel pump on the engine, a single polyvee fan belt, cast valve pans, etc. It is likely that your crate engine is a mid to late 80s carb model, and wires for those years will fit. Many crate engines are not just one specific model year, but a mix. A picture here will tell. [/quote]
If cost is a giant issue, have you tested the old ones? It would be hard to go wrong with those Delco wires. If you keep them from heat damage, they will last well. BTW, my Accel 8871s are still working fine, 9 years so far.
Let's ID that engine first. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
8/09 |
I would use the old ones, but unfortunately a few of them pulled apart when I was taking them off. I guess I could fix them up, but I'd rather just start new with something as important as the plug wires. I could probably stretch for the ones you have Bill, the Accel. That way if everything turns out well (which I really think it will), I won't need to sink even more money, since they really aren't that much more than the AC Delco ones.
I've got a bunch of paper work from when my grandpa had the new engine put in, unfortunately I left it all back home. I figured it would be WAY too much of a distraction down here at school. I've got a briefcase packed FULL of booklets and papers and manuals about everything from the microwave to the electric step! I completely forgot to write down what type of plugs were in the engine when I pulled them out to check them... Thanks Bill! "The greatest good you can do for another is not just share your riches but to reveal to him his own." Benjamin Disraeli | |||
|
8/09 |
Hey Bill, What do you think about these plug wires to start out with Spark Plug Wire Set - Mileage Plus Also, do you think I should go ahead and buy a new rotor as well as an ignition module? I am just trying to cover all my basis to make sure I have spark before I head up the to motorhome in about a month. I'd like to gather all the parts/information I can before I head up to the motorhome because I don't have access to the internet or many part stores where the it is located. "The greatest good you can do for another is not just share your riches but to reveal to him his own." Benjamin Disraeli | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
The single stud air cleaner and stamped steel rocker boxes would indicate that it is a carbed 454. I'm gonna guess it has at least two regular V belts up front, too, and has a fuel pump on the right forward corner of the block.
If you don't overheat the Delco, you will be fine. Use heat sleeves and let the engine idle before shutdown.
The OEM spec is AC R44T @.045" gap for a carbed 454 MH. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
Depends on where they are made. If Chinese, they will be good enough to see if the engine runs. If they are Mexican, they might be OK for a little longer. I got stung once by a low-line NAPA belt, so I avoid their cheap stuff. Their top line stuff is still good, though. However, if it is important to save money now, and spend more later, they could be a decent choice.
Yes. If you keep the Barth, which is likely, you will always have spares with you, then. New cap, too. And look for the Rust of the Red Death under the rotor. Make sure the advance mechanism is free and lightly lubricated. Look at the wires and connections going to the module. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
BTW, you should go to Harbor Freight's site and look at a 12 volt test light and a spark plug test light. Reasonably priced and useful for what you are doing. You can save a few dollars by making up your own, too. Any 12 volt bulb for the 12 volter and a NE51 or NE51H for the ignition light will work. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |