Bill, where would one buy the aluminum washers you mentioned?
Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
Bill, where would one buy the aluminum washers you mentioned?
Jim

HERE is a little info on them. No source, but a nice image.

We had them in stock at the airline, but I bought my own at a place at the Torrance airport called Nagel's. No idea if they are still in business.

Try:
http://secoseals.com
http://delaerospace.com
http://flaretite.com

Seco and Del both uses metal conical seals. Flaretite however went one step further and coated their seals with baked-in Loctite sealant.

I also recall seeing them advertised in a small ad in the back of one of the aviation maintenance trade journals. I believe the company was in Ventura or Oxnard, CA. Being retired, I no longer receive any trade journals, but if you know an aircraft maintenance person, you might ask them.

Go to Summit or Jegs and enter "Earl's sealing washers". They come in sizes for your tubing. You must be using 37 degree flares as they do not fit the 45 degree flares used on some fittings.You can use Prussian Blue to seat the flare fitting to finger tight and that will show you the seating area. Maybe someone can tell if the Rochester Qjet Uses 37 degree flares.

My son-in-law pointed out that the fuel tube must be lined up properly to begin with or the flange will not seat properly. When I took it apart, the fuel tube was nowhere near in alignment with the hole. So, he will do that for me when he gets home from flying this week. He used to build Jeeps and had all the normal problems with this set up.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
My son-in-law pointed out that the fuel tube must be lined up properly to begin with or the flange will not seat properly.

He is absolutely right on that. Proper alignment also prevents cross-threading. I like to seat the flare (observing the concentricity of the back of the nut on the tube) and be sure the nut starts easily and goes two or three threads without a wrench.

quote:

When I took it apart, the fuel tube was nowhere near in alignment with the hole.

OK............sounds like a good finding.

Something else just bubbled up in the primordial ooze of my memory............

When straightening the end of a flared line, do not grasp the line close to the end or by the nut. Instead, insert a fairly tight-fitting round piece of metal inside the first inch or two. You will have better leverage, the tube will stay round and you will not deform the flare.

My son-in-law came home this week and with the muscles of a 44 year old, was able to attach the fuel tube to the carb without leaks. He had some experience with the set up and did a little straightening of the fuel tube so that it aligned correctly. But I will tell you, he put a lot of muscle into it. My guess is that it would have been somewhere north of 50 foot pounds.
Will still convert the system to A N fittings eventually. Quadrajets Parts makes a fitting that allows you to keep the filter in the carb and directly attach the A N fittings as needed. Cost of the change will be about $50 which will include the heat shielding on the rubber hose. Thanks for all the help on this problem.
Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
He had some experience with the set up and did a little straightening of the fuel tube so that it aligned correctly.

Sounds like your troubles are over.

quote:

Will still convert the system to A N fittings eventually. .

Sounds like your troubles are already over.

Parts on hand for the next time--just in case.
Jim

If I were to convert to AN, I would use the most heat resistant line available and run it down the front of the engine (by way of a 90 deg elbow)to avoid the heat soak of being above the manifold and (God Forbid) the possibility of a leak dripping on a hot manifold.

My thinking, too, Bill. The line I have is rated @302 degrees F, and with the heat shield will be close to 500. Would run it in the same path that the solid one is. Hope I won't have to do it.
Jim

Fireshield or similar also gives some chafing protection, which could be valuable up front.

The steel OEM line can also chafe, especially if it was installed with all the accessories in place. sometimes a clamp or two gets left off. Good to check it now and then.