Which proves the point that we are training people to read computers, not to solve problems. Pretty soon, all the workers will be able to be replaced by computers who can read other computers even better than humans.

quote:

Pretty soon, all the workers will be able to be replaced by computers who can read other computers even better than humans.

People laughed about military aircraft eliminating the pilot, but it is taking place as we speak. The human is the weak link in a fighter jet anyway. The key will be can humans remain in control?

We will all be gone by the time this question reveals itself, that is for sure.

The vibrations are finally gone; the final solution was replacement of the left front wheel. The original was only about 3/16" out-of-round,but that was enough.

Great news. Now what was your problem in the first place

1. Warped rear wheel
2. Rock caught in groove of rear tire, damaged the belt
3. Thrown balance weights
4. Worn kingpins
5. Belt separation, front tire

But you always keep on goin'! Gald the problem is over.
Jim

I am low on turn signal oil. Stuff is hard to find. Does anyone know where I can get it? I need summer grade.

Tom Taylor
Mystery Barth

I use only Mother Fletcher's Triple-refined Snake Oil.

quote:

I am low on turn signal oil. Stuff is hard to find.

Most places that carry muffler fluid will have it.. Try Walmart or Harbor Freight....

It's been awhile since issues meriting posting here. And I'm not sure I've isolated the issue.

Three (electric) lift pumps have quit in the past two years, the first was a new preventive replacement, only a few yards from my repair shop, and with only a couple hundred miles on it.

The second on the road to the Cagles'last May; not having the right fittings, I got towed and it was replaced by Macon Kenworth.

The last, again headed to Cagles' for Christmas, quit on the road, not far from where the one had quit in May. This time I had a spare (I now carry 2), and installing it discovered a poorly-crimped butt connector, which I replaced. With the new pump installed, I was on my way in a few minutes.

But this time I retained the "failed" one - and it tested fine on the bench. Now, I'm not so sure the prior pumps actually failed ...

So, long-neglected on my "to do" list is rewiring the lift pump for three reasons:

a. Bypass the chronically weak relay on the oil pressure sender, and

b. Provide a reliable and over-capacity power supply to the lift pump, and

c. Change the wiring connectors to make the connections more reliable and easier to replace the pump.

I'm also going to make a couple of minor changes to the mounting bracket to make it more accessible.

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Provide a reliable and over-capacity power supply to the lift pump,

Is it possible the lift pumps were failing from not getting enough current? Not enough supplied current is hard on any electrical motor.

Change the wires to a larger gauge first from the relay to the pump.

Going from a #16 to a #12; the total wire run will be reduced from 35' to 15'.

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Originally posted by Rusty:
Going from a #16 to a #12; the total wire run will be reduced from 35' to 15'.

How about going from #12 to #16 reducing the wire run?

There are many areas where Barth (and most RV makers) didn't use appropriate wire size for the length and current draw. Good example is the house water pump. I shortened the wire and increased the wire size to 10 gauge to and from a relay, I got a big increase of water flow and pressure.

The water pump wire runs to two switches and is very long and small. Now all the switches control is a local relay near the pump.