I was told by someone that my molded 30 amp elec cord(shore power) should not be plugged in to a 15 amp outlet with an adapter cord. It heats up the prongs & weakens them.

If true does that go for 50amp down to a 30amp outlet?

I know that you don't want to put more than a 15 amp load & preferably less when on this scenario & 30amp load & preferably less on this second scenario. That said, other ok vs not ok conditions?

We want to up our 30amp cord to a 50amp cord as our main shore power cord about 30' but our garage only has a 30amp outlet. Therefore the rv will be plugged in to the 30amp outlet with a 50amp cord whenever it sits.
Why? because we are trying to solve our ac issue with some proper wiring instead of the dreaded "switch" I fixed until it broke issue

http://barthmobile.com/eve/for...1087061/m/3933948957

Thanks,
Tere

Depending on the answer we may be looking for a 30' 50amp cord with the plug preferably.

There's some truth to the use of a 15A to 30A adaptor's heating up, however, I run a 15/30 at home, connected to a 100' 10 ga. extension cord. The 20A receptacle is wired and protected to 20A.

I had heat problems using a cheapo (Walmart) adaptor, but one bought at the RV place has served well. What I've discovered is that with molded plugs and receptacles the electrical connections are suspect. I had to replace the receptacle on the 10 ga cord because it failed internally. I also had to replace the molded plug on the coach for the same reason.

You should have no issues with the 50A to 30A. Note that going to 50A in the coach will necessitate a new breaker box or at least another one for the new hot leg. A 50/30 uses only one leg, and you'll not have the 2nd AC. A 30/50 connects both legs together, so while both legs in the coach will be hot, they're actually connected to only one leg, and you'll have the same issues as now.

Also consider that going to 50A in the coach will require additional wiring, including the feed from te genset. A 4KW generator outputs only 120VAC, so running both airs from it will necessitate creative circuitry. In short, it won't be simple, and it's not for amateurs.

If you are going to power a 30A coach from a wall outlet, it would be a good idea to install a new 20 amp commercial grade outlet. Then make up your own pigtail with two 20A plugs going into one 30A receptacle. This spreads the load over both halves of the standard duplex receptacle. The two plugs should be secured together so one cannot come out and be dangerous. I plug them both in and connect them with a gob of epoxy or Shoe Goo. After the stuff has set up, I wrap a little braided fishline around it and goop it again. If you use fairly large plugs, they will almost touch each other and make it easy to glue them together. Black tape makes it look a little less Clampett-y.

There is a one-piece adapter sold that does all this, but they are low quality and often get so hot they discolor.

Shoot the receptacles now and then with a little Corrosion X or CRC 2-26 to keep conductivity up. I keep tape over all my outside receptacles when not in use.

You could also add a secondary 50amp box to your main power panel and run proper 4 wire conductor to a 50 amp box close to the coach and then you won't have an unsafe sysrem. I ran this to my parking slab and spent less than $100 for the materials.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
You could also add a secondary 50amp box to your main power panel and run proper 4 wire conductor to a 50 amp box close to the coach and then you won't have an unsafe sysrem. I ran this to my parking slab and spent less than $100 for the materials.

Yeah, that's the best.

I'm doing that right now, using nifty boxes from Home Depot.

Unlike others I have seen, there is space in the box for another receptacle if desired. 30 amp, 20 amp, both, whatever.