Seal job is on hold. I figured the brakes could be a safety issue, maybe even fire issue if they get bad enough. I will have the bad side done by tomorrow. The other side can wait, although I have the parts.

I can stand the seal leak, if it doesn't get much worse I could get home with it. I do have the new seal and I would prefer to replace before I go. I have 2 weeks left so I think I be able to "git er done" before we leave. I will definitely post the results when I get there.

When I replaced my system, the 3 rotors were all within tolerance and could have been turned BUT, there were too many heat and stress cracks all around. The rotors had 130K miles on them.

I do like Steve, I coast a lot and also anticipate slowing to avoid heavy brake use if at all possible. With the 6 speed I can use engine braking somewhat.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
I do like Steve,

Hmm, shows what can happen when things are out of context. (I do like you, too, Ed!)

Is this Facebook? Sorry I just couldn't resist that.

Ha Ha, Good take on that one Steve! As was said, your "teacher gene" is again showing!

" seal job is on hold "
Thanks for the update Steve , I will be watching to see what you find out . Keep a close eye on the oil level if you don't get it fixed before heading home . that was part of the problem with my engine (rear seal) when it started knocking. Bob

Fantastic.
?? How is the axle lubricated??
does the fluid come from the Diff. rez.

Good question! The answer is yes, it gets lube from the diff, but intermittently.

If you run the differential lube level at the OEM level, the lube does not quite get into the axle tubes. Only when cornering or tipped to one side will the lube run down the axle tube and get to the bearings. This is considered adequate by GM.

(They do suggest that when you install the bearings you pack them with grease to last until some more comes down the axle tube.)

One of the reasons I installed a Mag-HyTec diff cover was they allow you to run the level a bit higher to keep some in the tubes. 2 qt added capacity, convenient dipstick, magnetic drain plug and O ring seal on the cover also.

Link to Mag-Hytec thread here

Well, finally getting around to finishing the axle work. I pulled the rear wheels, calipers and hubs a week back (now I have a WEAK back!)

The right hub is getting new bearings and seal. The left hub is getting bearings and new brakes installed. Good news is the old disc could be turned and I will have a spare. I will get them back from the machine shop tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I had the tires removed from the wheels. The tires were far from worn but were made in mid 2004, I originally planned to replace them last summer but got sidetracked. I sanded and painted the rims then had new 8R19.5 Bridgestones mounted. Date codes indicate they were made in Dec 2014, less than six months old.

As RV tires go, the Bridgestones are pretty reasonable. 4 wheels about $1300 out the door. Should be good another 10 years or so.



All my tires are now 2 years old or less. Once the hubs and wheels are back on, I will replace the left caliper, hose, and the steel lines on the axle. Rear brakes are then new from master cylinder back. Only brakes left to go are on the tag axle.

to be continued:

quote:

Should be good another 10 years or so.

Yeah, that's what I thought - before 3 blowouts due to tread separation at the belt. Never again a Bridgestone on any of my vehicles. Three similar failures on my 1T van (2 failures, one replaced before failure), and four (one caught before failure) in my Lexus LS400.

None was over 4 years old.

My 6 Bridgestones are all over 10 years old and have never failed me.

Wow, I hope this is not typical of the newer Bridgestones. I have wider Goodyears on the front but all 6 rear tires are now Bridgestones. The tag axle tires are 2 years old now. I'm surprised how many failures you've seen in a short time…

Generally I am not running in the heat of summer in the south, hope this helps. (More like in the snow in winter…) Time will tell.

(Maybe you should slow down and not take the corners on one side, quit doing wheelies and give up the drag strip.)

Rusty, looking at the data tag, my coach calls for 70 psi front and rear, with similar axle weight limits to yours. Yet your data tag calls for 90 psi.

I have been running 85 psi in all rear tires. I still have not gotten around to weighing the axles to determine actual loading. I will very soon.

I'm thinking your DP may be loaded more heavily, perhaps explains the tire failures, I hope.

I use the mfr's recommendations, max 110 psi on dual. Headed north to cooler weather, 105, south to warmer, 100 psi. 90-95 in the fronts.

An old tire guy, whose opinion I trust, says keep it near the mfr's recommended top.

My stock GM steel rims are stamped 95 psi max. I have run as high as 90 but the ride gets worse. I can't believe my data tag says 70… seems REALLY low. I need to get the thing weighed.

My data tag says 65 all around. Bridgestone says 110, My wrench says at least 85, 90 if I can stand the ride. I run about 88.