I intended to overhaul my rear axle last summer. By the time I got the engine in, I ran out of time. I knew I wouldn't get away with this forever. Sure enough, on my way south in Alabama the right rear disc started to grind when braking.

Inspection reveals the outer pad is gone and rotor is rough. Must be changed soon.

I normally do a lot of coasting and I'm easy on brakes so I made it to the Keys with continued grinding but nothing worse. Rotor is toast though.

So… here we go with some new brakes. Not too many auto parts around here. A few NAPA stores around but prices online were actually better. Here are the NAPA parts I ordered for the Dana 70 axle:

NB 4885925 Brake rotor
CAL LE4717SD R Rr caliper w/pads severe duty
CAL LE4718SD L Rr caliper w/pads severe duty
UP 36765 Center axle brake hose
UP 38267 R Rr brake hose
UP 38264 L Rr brake hose

These calipers and pads are identical to the front ones. Normal part numbers (not NAPA)

left side: Cardone 18-4167
right side: Cardone 18-4166

pads: PMD149H or MKD149

If you plan to replace the bearings you will need:

seal: National 6358

inner bearing:
bearing: Timken 395CS
race: Timken 394CS

outer bearing:
bearing: Timken 387A
race: Timken 382

Here we go:

First we have to remove the dual wheels. I use a socket with 3/4" drive 12" extension and a bar about 2 feet long.

(I think I got that fancy handle extension from Harbor Freight)

I put a jack under the outboard end of the extension. Factory torque is 140 ft lbs. I could remove them by hand with this bar. I loosen them all with the wheel still on the ground.



Once they are broken loose I raise the axle with a bottle jack. Remove the 10 lug nuts, hub cover and both wheels. BTW, there is a tag wheel just behind and another jack on the frame to the front. Not as scary as it looks. The rotor is definitely shot.



To remove the caliper, you have to remove the small lock bolt, then drive the spacer out between the bottom of the caliper and mount. Remove the rubber brake line and slide the caliper off the rotor. (It may help to collapse the caliper with a large C clamp to allow more clearance)



Now I need to remove the rotor from the axle hub.
(to be continued when photobucket catches up…)

I went thru the same thing on our way to Alaska. I had checked the brakes all around before departure and had a good 40% left on the rear pads. 1200 miles later the right side rear was metal to metal. Was able to source the parts thru the local NAPA store, had to wait one day.

Found out that the caliper had frozen, worked it in and out a few times (10) with a "C" clamp and 2X4 and got it to work well enough for the balance of the trip. Replaced all four calipers, rotors and pads upon return. I will get about 80K miles on a set of pads.

Have a good break with your brakes

Ah yes, that must have been the northern brake turd fairy!

After the caliper is out of the way you can remove the hub cover. The end of the axle can be seen.



The axle slides out easily. Some gear grease will drain.



Inside the hub there is a pair of large nuts and a metal keeper ring holding the hub on the spindle. Remove the lock ring and the nuts, the hub slides right off.







Now to separate the rotor and hub. The lug bolts will also have to be removed to install in the new rotor.

What RE? Our Breakaway has a Dana 80 and your calipers look like ours. I know the Dana 80 was used on some one ton pickups.

Oops, I meant to put that in the thread title. This is a Dana 70 axle. I will list part numbers, etc Thanks.

(Editing done)

Boy! What a problem, Steve.
I did a stupid thing a few days ago. I forgot that I was filling the FWHT because it started to pour rain and thunder. The tank mounts let go and the tank fell out. I removed it in the mud and lake of water under the rig.
We now look like something out of "The Grapes of Wrath" since the FWHT is being carried home on top of the rig.
I thought the tank had an overflow but never really checked it out.
Good luck with the brake repair.
Don

Oh boy one of my favorite things, working under the coach, in water. Worse than snow! Must have been impressive when that tank let go. Glad you weren't doing 60 mph.

I drove out 10 lug bolts with a few light taps with a hammer. Thread a nut flush on the bolt end before you smack it. (The lug bolts actually pass through the rotor and seat into the hub.) The rotor is finally free from the hub. Now I can start putting it back together.



Now for cleaning and assembly.

Steve,
Question? Granted I have not done a full brake job in quite some time. I would imagine the rotors are not cheap. They look to have a lot of metal left. Doesn't anybody resurface rotors anymore or am I living in the past? Just curious as I am sure it is something on tap somewhere down the road.

Hat Tip to you Steve for another wonderful thread.
By the time I am able to purchase my own Regal SE, you will have given me a true education.
Not so complete that I will not have questions for "The Master" when that day comes. But it makes me feel secure enough to make the plunge when the stars align for me and the opportunity arises.
Keep it coming but don't forget you're supposed to be in sunny S. Fla. to relax and enjoy yourself.

Dana, the rotors are pretty thick but I waited too long. The braking surfaces are about 1/2 inch thick on each side! Normally I would get it turned but I didn't get it right away, drove the coach and ground about 1/8 inch off one side. It appears the caliper got stuck because other pad looks almost new. GM has a minimum thickness spec, also says surface can be grooved up to .030 inch and be used without turning.

Evidently the drum rear ends are more common. I had to shop a bit to get the rotors. Summit doesn't have rear disc parts so I went with NAPA. Almost $100 each. I planned to swap the other side soon and keep that rotor as a spare.

Tool Man, thanks for the feedback. I figure when I do stuff I can show my Barth buddies it is not rocket science and can be done by mortals like us! You never now, if you wait long enough you may be able to buy mine complete when I'm done with it!
Hopefully we can all save time with parts and pictures to go with. I've noticed there are many hits on my project threads, there must be a few people following.

I'll put this thing back together later and finish the thread.

Have Barth, will travel

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
I've noticed there are many hits on my project threads, there must be a few people following.

It's that teacher gene in you.

That's right! Pay attention and take good notes, there will be a quiz when we're done!

I was glad Dana tossed out the question regarding the turning of the rotor. I was wondering about that also.

This is a good argument for regular inspection/maintenance. If you catch the pads before they are worn through, the disc will probably be serviceable, eliminating the removal of the axle, hub, lug bolts and rotor. Just slide the caliper off, install pads, and remount the wheels.

Normally, I think if you don't run it too long with the pad gone you could still turn the rotor, there seems to be lots of metal. I'll see if I can find the specs.

I really can't complain, these brakes are at least 10 years old, that's why I'm blanket replacing all calipers and hoses.

I drove the lugs in the new rotor with a hammer but they didn't bottom out. Since I don't have a press handy, I used the lug nuts to pull them down tight. Now I will grease the bearings and the hub can go back on.



I greased the bearings, installed the hub and the retaining nuts, slid the axle in and replaced the axle hub cover. Ready for caliper and wheels.



The min thickness for the rotor is 37.2 mm. I'll see what the new and old ones are when I get something to measure them.

Here's our last look at the job. I put pads into caliper, slide over the rotor. Drive the sliding keeper in the bottom, secure with bolt. Attach brake hose and you're ready to bleed. Remount the wheels and you're good to go. (Retorque lug bolts promptly, check again soon.) Now, go to the other side, repeat!



Holy distortion, Batman! Do those lug bolts look crooked or what?
Macro lens must be doing that…

Steve , Don't mean to hijack the thread but,, Did you checkout the front seal on the new 454 ?? or is that project on hold , till the brakes are done or time permits ?? Thanks , Bob