My lift support cartridges do not support the bed in the lifted position for access to the engine. Should I expect the gas cartridges to support the access while the mattress is in place?
(I understand a broom handle works best)
Just trying to determine if the $26 cost is a waist of money.
Thanks all.

I replaced mine years ago. I don't like a stick support - too easy to kick out and drop the bed while one is working.

quote:

Originally posted by Pgh. Pirate:
My lift support cartridges do not support the bed in the lifted position for access to the engine. Should I expect the gas cartridges to support the access while the mattress is in place?
(I understand a broom handle works best)
Just trying to determine if the $26 cost is a waist of money.
Thanks all.

Some of the answer would depend on how much engine work you do. I look at my engine before every day's driving.

If you do use a stick, have it sit in a socket or be pinned so it can't be accidentally dislodged and cause the bed to fall on you. As an example, my Toyota truck has a hood prop that is permanently pinned to the hood and sits in a receptacle on the upper radiator support crossbar. The only way it can come out is to lift the hood and move it.

Should I expect the new gas cartridges to support the cover while the weight of the mattress on top of it?

Using a stick caused this one about $500 and about 9 stitches plus pain, blood mess and temporary ugliness. And for one who knows better.

The proximity of a stick would be too convenient for my wife. Point made.

I replaced my struts with new and they still would not hold up the bed with a mattress. Almost but not quite!

I use a piece of 1 1/2 PVC tubing with a notch and pin to keep it in place while I am working on things under.

Does anyone have any experience with HatchLift? Here They are suppose to hold up a king or queen size mattress. I am going to get a pair of them for our coach for Christmas.

I see the HatchLift cartridges have a 150# rating ea. and my direct replacement on Amazon has a 120# rating ea.. The difference may be enough to keep the cover with mattress up. Amazon is $26 total, and HatchLift's are $70. Tough call.

quote:

Originally posted by Pgh. Pirate:
Should I expect the new gas cartridges to support the cover while the weight of the mattress on top of it?

Yes.

To order the right cartridges, use a stick and a bathroom scale. Have the stick at the same angle and in the same position and angle as the air spring. Remove both air springs and have the stick press fully on the scale so it holds the bed just above the full down position.

Read the scale.

Divide the reading in half and add 10-20%. In case of a mistake, be sure the cartridges can be exchanged for the next one up or down. I bought mine from McMaster Carr because they had the best selection of mounts

I certainly will fabricate a secure "post" to assure safety - In fact when I perform work under a vehicle I block the wheels on the opposite side I am lifting. If the ground is not level I place the vehicle in neutral to have the vehicle roll back onto the blocks, and then place in park and set the parking brake firmly. I then jack the vehicle, place a stand, and then lower the vehicle onto the stand. I leave the jack in contact with the vehicle as added security. If I've removed a wheel, I place the wheel under the vehicle's frame/unibody so as in the event of all else failing a space is still maintained. Finally, I do not unnecessarily have my body under the vehicle and it's always a good idea to have another person nearby, when possible.

As to the lift cartridges, unfortunately in some cases, I simply like to have things work as they are designed to work. I will consider all of your experiences and suggestions and let you know of my decision and results.

quote:

posted 11-17-2014 09:31 AMHide Post
I certainly will fabricate a secure "post" to assure safety - In fact when I perform work under a vehicle I block the wheels on the opposite side I am lifting. If the ground is not level I place the vehicle in neutral to have the vehicle roll back onto the blocks, and then place in park and set the parking brake firmly. I then jack the vehicle, place a stand, and then lower the vehicle onto the stand. I leave the jack in contact with the vehicle as added security. If I've removed a wheel, I place the wheel under the vehicle's frame/unibody so as in the event of all else failing a space is still maintained. Finally, I do not unnecessarily have my body under the vehicle and it's always a good idea to have another person nearby, when possible.

As to the lift cartridges, unfortunately in some cases, I simply like to have things work as they are designed to work. I will consider all of your experiences and suggestions and let you know of my decision and results.
Posts: 14 | Location: Pittsburgh, PA | Member Since: 11-07-2014 IP

....wutt he sayed! .... and sometimes I wear a belt with my suspenders/

My struts hold the bed up wit mattress and sheets.

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Dubbs:
[QUOTE]posted 11-17-2014 09:31 AMHide Post
when I perform work under a vehicle I block the wheels on the opposite side I am lifting. If the ground is not level I place the vehicle in neutral to have the vehicle roll back onto the blocks, and then place in park and set the parking brake firmly.

Working for an airline, I have seen chocks get "shot", and travel a fair distance. As a result, I have two metal chocks with a flap of conveyer belt rubber attached to the underside which stick out so the wheel weight keeps the chocks in place.

quote:

I then jack the vehicle, place a stand, and then lower the vehicle onto the stand. I leave the jack in contact with the vehicle as added security. If I've removed a wheel, I place the wheel under the vehicle's frame/unibody so as in the event of all else failing a space is still maintained.

The Army used 6X6 lengths to build a Lincoln Log house under every corner of a truck up on jacks. They called it cribbing.

quote:

Finally, I do not unnecessarily have my body under the vehicle and it's always a good idea to have another person nearby, when possible.

And, an extra jack for any potential rescuer.

Having said all that, my preference is to use ramps under the wheels when possible.

quote:

Originally posted by john canning:
Using a stick caused this one about $500 and about 9 stitches plus pain, blood mess and temporary ugliness. And for one who knows better.

Speaking of prop stick incidents, I had a Hudson Hornet that had lost tension in the clock springs that held the knee-action hood prop open. The previous owner provided a nice stick that was pretty decent.

Some of you will remember the old budget timing lights that did not use battery power, just the spark power. They were notoriously difficult to see in daylight, and were best used in the dark of night. Or at least inside a dark garage.

I was attempting to adjust the timing outside in daylight, and the sun was too bright. I ended up using an Army poncho draped over my head and shoulders and the front of the engine. I made sure to keep it clear of the fan. But part of it must have gotten in a belt or pulley, because it pulled the prop out of position and the hood came crashing down on me, forcing me down toward the spinning fan. With the lightning fast reflexes of a 19-year-old, I somehow avoided the Fan of Death.

A couple of nearby friends said it was really entertaining, seeing my lower body and flailing legs attempting to get some traction and balance. One of the wittier ones came over and asked if I was all right, or if I needed any help. I told him to shut off the engine, after which I was able to direct my efforts away from fan-avoidance and to escape, and standing upright again.

I avoided injury (except to my dignity) and immediately started checking junkyards for a better prop. No luck. Inquiries for a now pair were not fruitful, so I made a prop that was vastly more secure, requiring that the hood be lifted several inches before it could be disengaged.

Often, a good scare can be as effective as something worse. I have learned a lot from near-disasters.