Hello,

I am looking for parts to fix my 1977 Barth. A few, but not limited to include: door lock, new door, front window, etc.....
If you or someone you know is parting out a Barth or selling parts, please contact me at caribe80@hotmail.com

-Thanks-

------------------
Charles M.

Since Charles is looking for parts for his Barth, we'd like to add our requests too. We need the wooden dinette (we have the cushions and table) for a 1973 Barth. We also are looking for the driver's side front aluminum corner. Thanks!

"We also are looking for the driver's side front aluminum corner.".........

I doubt that you're going to locate such a "part". I'd guess that those pieces were simply cut, rolled & attached from raw sheet stock as the units were assembled.

But any good aircraft AIRFRAME shop should have the right gauge of similar material in stock, as well as the machinery, tooling, rivets and skill to duplicate the OEM piece.
A less expensive option might be to locate your own raw stock and have it installed by any competent sheet metal mechanic with access to HVAC fabricating equipment.

Replacement isn't rocket science - just time consuming.......And if the damaged area is in an area to be painted, maybe you can get by with a good Bondo treatment.

Are you looking for the corner cap, or corner vertical? I heard that Lee Merriman had some.

Dale

Yes, when I drove to Lee's house to meet and get to understand more about the Ranger's I sure remember he said he did. Now it may have been rear, but I THINK front.

Dale

At the Barth Rally in Quartzsite in 2003, I seem to remember Mr. Merriman said he had rear corner caps, but you'd have to check with him to be sure,

The later models with the eyebrow in front are fiberglass on top. The '70s models in the gallery appear to be aluminum with formed corners.

The advice above, re: the lower sections is right on. If 'twere me, and I wasn't comfortable with bondo, I'd drill out the rivets on the offending section, get a piece of do-it-yourself aluminum sheet at the corner hardware, and try to fit it myself. If it didn't work, I'd take it to the local sheet metal shop and see if they would roll it for me.

I don't know about the earlier Barths, but my front cap is pop-riveted. There was no way for them to get in and buck rivets when the cap was installed.

Many of my original rivets have failed from galvanic corrosion, and I've replaced them.

For those who don't like Bondo, which is a polyester, an epoxy putty/filler like Marine Tex is more permanent. I have done some real jakeleg repairs with that stuff that lasted way beyond all expectations.

I carry a small jar of Marine-Tex in my goody box. Used lots of it when we were boating. Had a GMC motorhome with a center dump right in front of the rear bumper, that hung up almost every time I got off the road. By the time I sold the rig, the dump was a massive blob of Marine-Tex having been glued back up 3 or 4 times. It always seemed to break where the Marine-Tex wasn't.

Hey Olroy you mention the location of the dump on your GMC. I just posted a Barth Class C a week or so ago and was surprized to see this.



By the way, whether you are in the market or not you should look at this Class C. Man if I were a single guy just following the road, I don't know if I might not go this way. Surely better than a Travelmaster of the same year..Did they have Travelmasters in the 70's??

------------------

Thanks for all of the suggestions about the corner! We'll get in touch with Lee and see what he has available.

Dave, that one wouold never go the way of my GMC dump, protected as it is by the hitch. Mine was centered, but it hung below the lip of the body, no more than 6- 8 " above the ground, with no protection whatsoever.

[This message has been edited by olroy (edited July 05, 2005).]

Hi all, My drain is in the middle also. I nedd a door lock but still no clues on where to get it a man at the hardware store across from where I work suggested a locksmith to rebuild my lock so going to try that.Dave I still have the water leak on the fresh water tank.The man at clearview Rv said it will cost a fortune. to take that tank out. I explained what you said about them being almost bomb proof.I change thr water pump and a valve in the back of the toliet. I want to take all the carpet out and put new flooring in and I'm thinking ( which is scary) maybe it is the connection from the water tank to the kitchen?what do yiu think? Donna

I am still convinced it is something other that the tank itself, unless someone froze it solid. Tell me again where is this tank located? Is it under the frig? If I thought it was that tank I would just cut it out. You have the other tank under the bed, right?

Where is your leak? When we took ours out the first time and hooked water to it, it ran out from under the coach where the bed is like a faucet. We lifted the bed and found shut offs that just had to be closed. I don't know if this will work for you but it did for us. We even had an RV place get it ready to roll.
Cowboy Mel

Colaw RV Salvage(Mo) told me they had three Barths, the last I called them. I'm sure you can find thier number on the web, as thier website does not offer all inventories.