One of the previous owners of 'Old Blue' had Thorley headers installed but kept the smog pump system in tact. Since we have the pump off while working on replacing the water pump, I'm thinking about removing the entire smog pump system. It seems straight forward. Soak all the pipe fittings on the exhaust manifolds with P B Blaster, remove them, remove the pump, hose to the air cleaner, put plugs in the exhaust manifold holes. Done? Anybody do this before? What should we look out for? Any changes in carb or timing?
Jim

If you ever think you might ever sell, being non-smog compliant could limit your pool of prospective buyers.

Or register your coach as a collector or vintage vehicle (over 25 years old) in your state and you are exempt from all inspection requirements other than basic safety issues - lights, brakes, tires, turn signals and wipers.

I removed 2(!) smog pumps 2 years ago, no regrets. Neither was working anyway. So much more room to work!

Michigan doesn't smog test any more, but I guess some states do insist the stuff. The PO was from New Hampshire and left the stuff there as that state requires. I can't understand the rationale. The stuff doesn't work, can't be repaired, you can't buy replacement parts.

I also removed the old Freon-12 air conditioning compressor. Went from 5 belts to 3.

The fittings on my Thorley headers didn't want to come off, I cut them off and plugged the tubes.

Good luck! Sorry you couldn't make it here to Raccoon MTN.

Smog pump removed, now removing the fittings on the headers. We've been able to break for of the pipe bolts & unscrewed. Still hoping to get the other 4 out. I am going to plug the pipes. They take a 1/4" plug. So far i've only been able to find brass plugs for brake lines. My question's are...

1)Is it ok to use the brass plugs on the steel?

2)What kind of sealer should I use to prevent leaking?

If I can't get the other 4 bolts off. Been pb blasting several times a day for one week, the next week maybe 4 times total Now working on getting them off before thursday when we finish replacing the water pump, removing the air/smog pump & all the paraphernalia that goes with it, replaced the fan clutch, new thermostat, new lower radiator hose. Using the Gates Power Grip Heat shrink hose "clamps" instead of metal hose clamps. They were on it already. Very neat product, but expensive.
What vacuum hoses are no longer necessary? There are many.

I want to ad more pics but I have to get another tutorial on what to do????

I know I talked to Steve VW about vacuum hoses but I don't have a good memory.

Beware I don't know what some of this stuff is on this drawing. More pics to follow with questions.

Thanks,
Tere

1. It's OK to use brass on steel.

2. I use a Permatex aviation-grade sealant on about everything, available at NAPA - comes in a squat little can like PVC cement and has a brush.

Thanks Rusty.

Ditto on the aviation Permatex.

This is how the sticker looked on 86Barth (87 emissions) things got worse!



In your case the vacuum feed to the distributor has a CHECK VALVE and a SPARK TVS "temperature-operated vacuum switch" (valve) It appears to connect to a non ported vacuum source at the rear of the carb. Remove hoses and cap the carb port.

Notice on my drawing the dist feed comes from the front left, a ported source. I would route a hose directly from the front driver side to the distributor to get the ported source. (You can connect to the tee that used to go to the AIR pump) Disconnect the SPARK TVS, the CHECK VALVE, and the associated hoses.

EFE is early fuel evaporation, an exhaust heat-riser preheating system for cold weather starts. Probably doesn't work any way. You can remove the EFE-TVS vacuum lines. Run the black hose from the air filter directly to the carb source. This keeps the air horn flap and the SEC VAC BRK ACT working.

Leave PVC connected. Remove the AIR pump hose from the tee in the line from carb to TRC SOLENOID CONT VALVE, (connect the dist hose here) remove AIR pump and vacuum hose.

When finished you should have a hose from carb tee to distributor, a loop to the TRC solenoid, PCV valve and hose, and a hose to the air filter and sec vac brk actuator. You can tear out the other stuff.

So much easier to work on now!

I'm sure you kept all of this stuff in a bushel basket so when you sell the coach you can swear all the smog stuff is INTACT, (albeit not connected!)

Permatex aviation grade is indeed great stuff, but is only rated to 400 deg F.

Muffler cement takes temps several times that.

Hi-Temp sealer would work (muffler cement can't take extremely high temps). Actually, if it were I, I'd use no sealer and torque the plugs down with the headers hot.

If I decide not to use any sealer what is the torque on these or where would I find the info.

[QUOTE]I'm sure you kept all of this stuff in a bushel basket so when you sell the coach you can swear all the smog stuff is INTACT, (albeit not connected!)[QUOTE]

Thanks for all the info guys.
Tere

Steve, I think I told you I would send you this pic of the "repair" we did on our frame. Oops this is the before. the black is the chassis saver. will send another pic shortly.

Steve,
Here is repair.

That is exactly what I need to do behind the skirts and under my storage bins. The wheel wells need some work too. When it warms up some more...

Snow banks still 1 ft and frozen solid. Yard is finally open. Lake still has 6 inches of ice.

Cheer up - it'll all be gone by August!

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
That is exactly what I need to do behind the skirts and under my storage bins. The wheel wells need some work too. When it warms up some more...

Snow banks still 1 ft and frozen solid. Yard is finally open. Lake still has 6 inches of ice.

Steve, here is another way to fix the frame. This is way of topic an I may start another thread.


Then put the skin back on.