I am looking to install a dual bypass filter and was wondering if anyone could point out which plugs on the drivers side of the 454 are the oil jackets and which should be send and return. Also I am adding a few windows and would like suggestions on the best sealant to install with. Thanks in advance. Lloyd

I tried several sealants and have settled on 3M 8609 Windo-Weld. It is urethane that is used to mount windshields and is available at commerical auto paint suppliers. It is impervious, flexible and structural. It must be cut off with a wire to remove and will adhere to anything.

Thanks I'll try it out. Adding 3 windows and I only want to do it once.
Other topic: Still not sure where to return oil from bypass filters. High side is easy, just tee off the sending unit. I have seen drain plug
return systems but I'm not sure I want to do that. Any thoughts out there?

A self-tapping hollow bolt is probably the most common method used to return the oil to the pan. Every kit I've seen has one of these included.

It's item BP-40 at the Amsoil site https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/partslist.aspx

Illustration of how they recommend installation is at https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/bypass_dia_600px.jpg

Mike

quote:

Still not sure where to return oil from bypass filters. High side is easy, just tee off the sending unit. I have seen drain plug
return systems but I'm not sure I want to do that. Any thoughts out there?

How about going to the rocker box or the oil fill cap? Either one is less risky than messing with the pan.

I would avoid the rocker box, as the return has to flow back into the pan from the galleries by gravity.

Better I would think would be in the return line from the oil cooler.

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I would avoid the rocker box, as the return has to flow back into the pan from the galleries by gravity.

The rocker box has worked for years for me. The rocker box area already has provisions for gravity drainback. Most bypass filters use a restriction of .040 to .060", so we are not talking about a lot of oil at operating temperature. I had puke cans on each rocker box on a hot boat engine that used a bypass filter, and there never was any evidence of a drainage problem on either side. I must qualify this by saying that the experience only applies to Chevy and Olds engines.

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Better I would think would be in the return line from the oil cooler.

The return line from my oil cooler has full engine pressure in it. Every one I have measured has been that way. I would be worried if an oil cooler had lower pressure on the return line. Some stock oil cooler systems are pretty restrictive, but that is addressed by the inclusion of a bypass valve.

The return line from my bypass filter has zero pressure in it. I doubt there would be much flow through a bypass filter that had full engine oil pressure on each side.

BTW, P30 oil cooler lines need to be inspected for rubbing on each other or their metal clips. New ones are unobtainable.

quote:

The rocker box has worked for years for me. The rocker box area already has provisions for gravity drainback. Most bypass filters use a restriction of .040 to .060", so we are not talking about a lot of oil at operating temperature. I had puke cans on each rocker box on a hot boat engine that used a bypass filter, and there never was any evidence of a drainage problem on either side. I must qualify this by saying that the experience only applies to Chevy and Olds engines.

With the restriction, there would be no too-much-flow issues. But with that modest flow, I'd have to wonder how effective a bypass filter would be?

My experience from the Oil Bidness days was mostly Cummins and Cats, and the main retrofit was Luber-finer, and they were all cartridge units; one of the benefits heard from the truck lines (mostly Johnson Motor Freight, which did extensive research on its own) was the extra oil capacity - but Johnson was running 250 Cummins @ 48K drain intervals on Rotella 30.

The one I use is a Baldwin B164, which is a spin-on filter. It is rated at around .5 GPM. I believe the .060 restriction is in the filter, but I put my own .040 restriction in the pressue take off to relieve the hose of the burden of full engine pressure. This also gives me just a little more time if there is a leak. Some small engine guys use a .030 restriction on account of oil pressure issues. Amsoil is reported to have an even smaller orifice, but information changes daily from them.

A .062 restriction is reported to flow a quart a minute at idle, so it sounds ballpark.

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...with that modest flow, I'd have to wonder how effective a bypass filter would be?

At the flow of a quart a minute or more, that works out to 7 quarts in 7 minutes. And, of course, this is in addition to the normal OEM full-flow filter merrily filtering ALL of the oil ALL of the time.

It wasn't until the late forties or early fifties that cars started having anything but bypass filters. Some older designs continued long after that with only bypass filters. I recall that some cars had even a bypass filter as an option at purchase, and VW, for example, had no filter at all. I can't imagine any engine that got harder overall use than a Beetle, but it had no filter. Aircraft radials still function quite well with only screens to catch large chunks and small rodents. None of this is to say that filters aren't necessary, and that full flow isn't best. I just like a little extra filtration. My oil analysis reports make me feel all warm and fuzzy. I did a lot of hard work as a cripple to put the new engine in my Barth, and I want it to last a long time.

To quote the Venerable Bede, "Oil is cheaper than metal." So, it surely follows that taking care of your oil is good economics.

Yeah, I had a couple of airplanes, and neither had an oil filter. I was pretty good friends with the guys from the Aero Division, and the take was twofold:

1. Aircraft engines don't operate in the area of crud very long (taxi and takeoff), and,

2. An oil filter is a potential source of leaks while airborne.

The older VW's lack of an oil filter was attributed to the broad tolerances in the engine parts.

My old '50 Ford V8 flathead (I was the second owner in '75 - bought for $200 with 55K on the clock) had the bypass filter - with a washable screen.

As to bypass filters, as my neighbor Mrs. Goldstein used to say (normally referring to some awful-tasting home medicine), "It can't hoit!"

Analysis, properly interpreted, is an excellent way to monitor what's going on inside.

My airplanes were too old to have oil filters, save the screen. But sometime in the late fifties or early sixties, light airplane engines started using spin on filters. The leakage issue was addressed by tightening a big worm drive clamp around the filter and safety-wiring its screw slot and running a pigtail to a tab on the accessory case. This, despite the fact that a properly installed filter is most unlikely to come off a car engine. In fact, they are way too often difficult to loosen.

I think that it is difficult to know the truth about bypass filters in gasoline auto or MH engines, given the variables involved with operators, maintenance, oil, conditions, etc. And, the best places to observe an engine, stationary units, are usually diesels. The only opportunity I have had was just one irrigation pump in Iowa, which had an Olds engine. My results were inconclusive, due to the fact that Olds have oiling issues, anyway, and the engine was already well-used. But the oil analysis showed that they recommended longer oil change intervals after the bypass filter was installed. I hate to say this, but I know reliable people who report similar results with the Frantz toilet paper filter.

Well, my aeroplaynes were a '49 Ercoupe, replaced by a '55 F-35 Bonanza.

I also dealt with (in the late-'60s, early '70s) with the Toilet-paper filter thingy; most noteworthy was that no one could specify the toilet paper's filtration effect in microns. The few trucking lines we sold product to eventually dropped the TP filters for that reason; the cutoff was about 5 microns - below that, the filter would scavenge additives from the oil; above that, the contaminants would persist.

That's why Andy Grantelli's ("They Call Me Mr. 500") "two-stage" filters, touted at 2 microns, died a natural death; there wasn't much demand for a filter that would eliminate the additives..

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Originally posted by shtym:
I have seen drain plug return systems but I'm not sure I want to do that. Any thoughts out there?

A banjo bolt and an adapter would allow using the drain plug.

http://www.brakequip.com/fitting7.html for the banjo bolt and

http://www.brakequip.com/fitting8.html for an adapter.

Mike

A boat oil drain hose could also be adapted.

Now you've got me thinking. The filter setup I have is actually a remote double (fullflow)filter rig. I was originally thinking of metering it down to operate as a bypass system.
The primary reason for adding is to increase oil capacity. If I were to take the oil cooler return, enter the filters, then return to original position operating fullflow.That would work nicely also. Would anybody know what is first in line the stock filter or cooler? That would allow me to load the courser filters first. Does that make any sense?
1987 P30