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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
Had a couple days off so I got into a little cabinet sprucing up. The end of the kitchen cabinet had some stains from something spilled by a PO, so I sanded it down to bare wood. The stains were still there a little, but I'll live with it. I used Formsby's Tung oil, rubbing it in good. Allowed to dry overnight and steel wooled it and re-applied. The first coat was kind of orange, but the second matched existing finish nearly perfect. So... those lower doors are getting kind of beat up. Off they come, under the sander, 120 grit Triple-Cut, down to the wood, then 320 to smooth it out, then Tung oil. Again, first coat is kind of orange, second coat goes on this am and I'm sure it will mellow out to original color and gloss. Thought this might come in handy for anyone with older cherry cabinets that wants to spot-finish some stained or damaged areas. Formsby's Tung oil is the right stuff, but you MUST get down to bare wood. You can sand only the damaged or worn area, and overlap the oil onto the finished area, and by the second or third coat it should hardly show. A long and rambling tutorial, but I wanted to be thourough. 79 Barth Classic | ||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
Nice job! I've refinished some of the dark oak surfaces (table and step cover cabinet) and finished the wood inserts for the reefer. Minwax Special Walnut stain is a good match, followed by Minwax Urethane Satin top coats, lightly hand sanded with 320 sandpaper between. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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