Agree!

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
Steve, this might be a good time to consider a fluid damper.

Any particular recommendation? They range from about $75 for stock up to $400 for fluid custom. The Chevy forums like the Pro Parts and ATI but are not fond of the Fluidamper (sp?) brand.

For my application I'm not sure I'll see any advantage over an OEM type (as long as it doesn't leak!)

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...flu-800111/overview/

Several of us with GM/AMG 6.5L TDs have them, some with several years and 100K+ miles, trouble-free. The stock damper is good for 50-75K miles, but the 6.5L is likely harder on them than the 454. As for me, I'd prefer to replace parts as infrequently as possible, even at higher cost.

While to some extent I enjoy tinkering with the Barth, frankly, I'd prefer if nothing ever needed maintenance or repairs.

The only gripe I heard on those suggested that the fluid was too viscous at subzero temperatures.

OTOH, I hope I won't be running subzero ever again.

Two of the users are in SD and MT; of course, they're balmy compared to MI . I doubt the rubber in the stock damper is very resilient at those temps.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Two of the users are in SD and MT; of course, they're balmy compared to MI . I doubt the rubber in the stock damper is very resilient at those temps.

Good point. It does appear that several manufacturers use them on heavy duty OEM applications. We'll have to see what the stocker looks like and what GM will do for me.

Steve , Did you ever contact gm about the oil leak ? im wondering how well they stand behind there product & how the warranty actually works when not using a gm shop to install the engine . Thanks , Bob

I have not yet gotten around to the seal job. Just finished my rear axle brakes, tires, bearings job. I am on the road for a couple days to visit my parents in the UP of Michigan.

Once I have the problem nailed down I will talk to GM. I don't have high hopes. In the first place, it is a parts and labor only warranty. Second, my installation in the coach is not "off road, no emissions" as they advertise. Finally, it was not installed by a "professional" mechanic.

I suspect the best I'll do is a couple parts and about 2 hours labor. I'll keep you posted.

Steve , I talked to summit racing about warranty on new 454 HO , (this is were i would be purchasing new engine) , they cover the engine for 90 days . Then GM picks up the warranty . First gm will have to look at the engine to give the ok on defect .

So , I wouldn't tear down the engine till you stop by or call a gm dealer to ok the defect . I know you wont get much for a seal , but it might effect the rest of warranty if some other problem comes up later.

Thanks again for the thread (454 HO engine swap) , Bob

I'll probably just go ahead and fix it… (Even if GM looks at it and denies the coverage I still have to fix it either way.) It's really not the cost that grinds me, it is the fact I shouldn't have to patch up their mess in the first place.

I'll talk to GM soon and get an idea.

Finally got around to looking at the seal leak. Removed the alt belt, fan and water pump pulley. (I was planning to replace the fan clutch and now I will.)

Removed 2 belts to PS pump. It is a ways down but I can reach the main pulley. Remove the outer pulley (3 small bolts)

Removed the large bolt in the center. It is tight and the crank wants to turn first. I used the impact wrench to pop the bolt loose without spinning the crank.

Using a proper puller (center pull only, never outer hub) thread in 3 bolts thru the puller arms, turn center bolt to remove. You can see the shiny crankshaft end between water pump and timing cover here.



The hub is rusted but the rust did not extend to the seal area. You can see a fine wear line in the shiny part where the seal was riding. No real reason for leakage here…



I took some shots down there at arms length. The seal is not obviously damaged…








I would like to make a puller to remove the seal without further damage to inspect it closely. If I just pry it out, it will be wrecked for sure.
to be continued:

How do you like that nice new factory crate engine/water pump paint job? I knew I should have repainted it before I installed it.

Rule #1 NEVER black, can't find leaks or tell oil from ATF, etc.

Rule #2 do a decent job cleaning, brush on at least the first coat.

If the seal was leaking, don't think that the rust would have formed on the shaft. The "new and improved", read CHEAP, timing cover apparently is NOT one of Generous Motors best designs. Lots of stories on the Nets about the plastic ones leaking on small and big blocks. You might consider going back to a proven design, i.e., a metal cover with a GASKET. Pan would have to come down some to get the LIP on the TC Cover behind the pan gasket at the front. It is NOT a easy task . . . but that oil will continue to run all over, as your pictures show. Lou FMC #120

I suspect you may be right. I would guess the shaft rusted in storage, after assembly but before use. Unless I find something with the seal it points to the timing cover. I will have to inspect closely.

I've done these things before… replaced a crankshaft in place from BELOW a couple years back…

Thanks for the info. I will keep advised.

The seal may have hardened while it sat in the warehouse. I'd replace it anyway, now it's accessible.

There's also the remote possibility the seal polished off rust, although the pix don't point that way.

Is that seal installed flush all the way around. Can't tell real well from the pictures but it almost like the seal is further out of the front cover at the top of the seal. I am looking at the seals orange sealant and it doesn't appear even top to bottom. Seal further in at the bottom?

If that seal is not installed and seated correctly certainly that will leak.

If you are careful, (lot of grease) drill 3 small holes around the seal flat surface and insert sheet metal screws to draw out the old seal. If you pull evenly it should not damage the seal surface for your inspection. Grease catches and holds the drilling fragments.