I would think that 1 quart would be pretty normal for a new motor, until the rings break in.

quote:

Originally posted by Dave R:
I would think that 1 quart would be pretty normal for a new motor, until the rings break in.

That's what I am thinking. It should be broken in pretty well now and I will get a true idea soon. Considering the poor thing is running almost 3000 rpm, for a big block that is not excessive but I do expect better. The 2 piece seal on the old 454 was one reason I wanted to get a new engine.

As was suggested, the quart in 1000 miles seems a bit high… it is.

My brand new GM factory crate engine leaks out the front seal… about a quart in 500 miles.

I will have to pull the front pulley and inspect/replace when I get to the Keys. This is a PITA and the last thing I expected from a factory engine. I guess if you want the job done right… I have rebuilt at least 50 engines and not one ever leaked. I'm bummed out. Like I don't have enough to work on already.

At least it isn't the rear seal.

Also, my right rear disc is grinding. I will be doing rear brakes and tires also, it seems.

In the plus side, the engine is running strong. I can accelerate on hills that I couldn't hold before. The thing runs stronger the faster I go. It will climb hills better at 65 than 55 and shows no sign of strain at 75. I could probably make 90 if I let it go. Torque is good in the 2000's and really comes on strong about 3000 rpm. Throttle response at cruise speed is very good. No sign of knocking yet. Mileage is slightly better. I was seeing 6.2-6.5 normally, now seeing 6.7 even at the higher cruise speeds.

To be continued

I'm sorry to hear that about the leak Steve. But glad to hear she's running good. One of the best seals I've seen on a crank was a old Mercedes, besides a lip seal they had a thread cut in the crank to pull the oil away from the seal.

This is the first new engine I ever purchased. You'd think the idiots at GM who have been making 454 engines since 1969 could get it right by now.

I will change it when I get to the Keys. What a PITA.

Steve, sorry to hear about the leak . Makes me wonder now , should i replace my engine with new like you did ??? or, have the stock 454 rebuilt , for a cost of $2500 to $3000 ??? Bob

If you trust the rebuilder, that's a good question. As I posted, I have always rebuilt engines before.

Now that I am older and less patient, I decided it was easier/faster to get another engine than tear the old one down, clean it up, rebore the pistons, reassemble, paint, etc as I had before. Other major reasons: new engine has 1 piece rear main seal, 4 bolt main bearings, forged crank, rods, pistons and a roller cam setep.

I figured that I'd have about 3-4K in parts/shop labor to get to that point with the old engine and it still would not have 1 piece seal or 4 bolt mains. Not to mention time in the shop and I'd have to reassemble, paint, etc.

For 5700 I got the new engine, ready to install. I got lazy and took it. Assuming I get the seal OK with a couple hours I'm still OK with it. Just a PITA for a new factory engine.

It does run well. I'm still playing with timing, but it runs stronger the faster I push it. If it weren't for the leak I'd be 100% happy.

Steve,
I remember reading once that there could be leaks from the front mail seal if there were imperfections on he harmonic balancer where it goes through the seal. It would be nice if you could find that a new balancer solves the leak.
Matt

This is not rocket science. Either the seal is defective, damaged/crooked during installation or the balancer sleeve is bad. No excuse. I have done this dozens of times, no leaks. I will know soon.

Steve, doesn't that engine have a warranty? Have you checked into have them replace the seal on there dime? I know I have installed factory re-manufactured transmission in my shop and had them replace the transmission at a dealer all under warranty.

This is a "non street" engine designed to replace pre 76 OEM V8. I'm not sure if my application is covered but it is a parts/labor only warranty. Probably get me a seal and 2 hours labor.

Just a PITA. As soon as I pull the old one I will keep you posted.

Finally got around to crawling underneath. Here is a shot of the front of the engine.

Top to bottom: Harmonic balancer, timing cover, oil pan. Notice the gap between the balancer and the cover. That is the sleeve that slides into the seal in the timing cover. It should be shiny and smooth… why is it rusty and rough?



No wonder it leaks. I assume the rough sleeve abraded the seal lips.

I will have to get it smooth and shiny when I install the new seal or that won't last either.

Either the harmonic balancer sleeve was rusted before assembly, or it corroded after assembly, before I installed it. Evidently GM didn't bother to pickle it when they crated it.

It came in a crate wrapped in plastic, sat in my dry garage for about 2 months, then I installed it in 86Barth. I don't believe it corroded after I got it. I'll have to find out how long it sat before they shipped it to me.

When I pull this POS balancer out to replace the seal I'll post more shots. What a PITA for a factory new engine.

Good morning, Steve;

Regarding the rusted harmonic balancer, talk with a bearing and seal guy. There may be available a stainless steel sheet metal sleeve that can be pressed over the harmonic balancer to restore the quality of the seal lip running area of the harmonic balancer. It should be less than the cost of another harmonic balancer, and the stainless steel surface should be superior to the standard harmonic balancer for the seal.

Enjoy; Ralph, Latte Land, Washington

Good advice!
I have seen the sleeve fix done successfully before. I feel GM owes me a new balancer. If not, I'll use the sleeve if needed.

Steve, this might be a good time to consider a fluid damper.