Your data are making me think the Barth trailers, with big skylights, must have been like convection ovens inside.

-2 degrees in Minnesnowta this morning and 38 degrees in California.

MWrench and I had a discussion about this subject on the phone. As we discussed not much has changed. We are still looking at insulating.

Steve has been able to put some insulation in his Monarch in the ceiling. I was excited to hear that but I don't have the same spacing he has. He has more room because of the ducting. Still could be an option down the road for me also.

Just resurecting this as it is timely any time.

My insulation job got stalled but I will get back to it. When I did the roof insulation in the rear of the coach it made a noticable difference. When in the full sun, the insulated back end of the coach is at least 7-8 degrees cooler than the middle section.

I will document any further work on the project.

My 86 Regal had full insulation and was MUCH better in both hot and cold conditions. The lack of insulation in the 98 remains my #1 complaint. For a supposedly high end coach, the 98 is a disappointment in that regard.

We plan to add insulation to our next coach . Planning to use something like Wayne's coating or a wood covering on the walls and ceiling for that "Cabin" look and feel . I intend to use foam insulation board under it .
I am planning to get a roof coating that also adds insulation and roof protection .

https://denton.rvroof.com/

quote:

I am planning to get a roof coating that also adds insulation and roof protection .

Before I retired and was in the refrigerator design and manufacture business, I tested several coatings claiming to have insulation powers. None did! The best thing to do is get a good long lasting bright white coating that will reflect sun light. This will help sun load for A/C, only a good form of insulation will help with heat loss. Urethane spray or board being the best, other foam boards and fiberglass batting a close second. Check R-Factors.

Ole Nose losses heat like crazy, with just a 30 degree Delta -T, it takes a 30,000 BTU furnace to bring it up to an acceptable comfort level. All the single pane windows and no wall or roof insulation.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane88:

Ole Nose losses heat like crazy, with just a 30 degree Delta -T, it takes a 30,000 BTU furnace to bring it up to an acceptable comfort level. All the single pane windows and no wall or roof insulation.

Duane, in 1982 the RV camping thermal competition was a tent!

Let’s keep this one alive. Also check Steve VW’s Monarch Insulation thread.

I am looking forward to tackling this as soon as rime permits and I get a few other items out of the way. The difference between Steve’s coach and mine is interesting. Both Monarch’s but far different.

Reflectx is good for a number of things. Who ever sold Barth the idea also sold my old boss. He did our entire new construction farm shop with it. Could have done fiberglass, styrofoam but did the entire shed with reflectx.

[quote]Reflectx is good for a number of things. Who ever sold Barth the idea also sold my old boss. He did our entire new construction farm shop with it. Could have done fiberglass, styrofoam but did the entire shed with reflectx.[/quReflectx ote]

Urethane foam board has an R factor of about 8 per inch thickness. Reflectx less than half that! Considerable added expense also, kinda like sending water to Iowa via the Mississippi.. lol

Should add I did use Reflectx to sound deaden the dog house underside in Nose.

https://www.thespruce.com/is-r...l-insulation-1821923

on Reflectix:

The Fine Print

Each of Reflectix's statements about R-value on the label is valid, but they must be accompanied by a reading of the finer print off to the side. "This is a Reflective Insulation," the label reads. "Note: The stated R-value is only valid for the application specified when installed per the installation instructions on the label or at our website."

For example, the R 6.1 masonry value is only good if you provide two 3/4-inch airspaces, one between Reflectix and the masonry wall and another space between the drywall and the Reflectix.

Reflectix's stated R-14 R values for exterior walls are good only if the Reflectix is paired up with R-13 fiberglass batt insulation

Air Space Equals R-Value

If you don't provide air space, this product provides almost no insulating value. The rubber meets the road on Reflectix's website, where it says, "No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit. (An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)"

If you've got air space, why laboriously suspend a shiny Bubble Wrap in the center of it when you can just fill it with far more effective fiberglass batt insulation?

Interesting fine print. So Reflectix is actually about R 1.1 by itself. Not surprising. Not a fan myself.

Air spaces are good but they must be perfectly sealed to eliminate drafts. As you said, easier to use other thicker insulation for higher R values.

In the words of Arte Johnson “Very Interesting”

So the meticulously lined water bay lined with Reflectx is a waste. Another thing on my list. Reline the water bay with styrofoam also.

In my mind that does not ring absolute. When I use Reflectx inside my windshield when I don’t have a great view. The Reflectx does a great job of reflecting the heat. The sheet of Reflectx does not feel hot. If it was a sheet of aluminum or steel it would be hot to the touch.

Dana, if you used a real bright "WHITE" material as a windshield reflector you would have even less heat absorption. Even a bright metal color retains some light wave length from our glorious sun. Because your Refletx has no mass or very little it does not retain the heat it absorbs. Another bit of trickery. Damn I love marketing people.

Finally, put it outside your car, most windshields are tinted!

Ok I can not resist, Styrofoam vrs Urethane, use urethane, why, Urethane uses Freon or maybe now days another inert gas to make its cells, this gas is retained in the closed cells and is a better insulator than plain ole air. Some is even retained in the open cell version. Styrofoam is polystyrene the cell walls are thicker marginally less R factor. Styrofoam is expanded using steam, live steam...and basically baking soda.

Hello all, just thought I would add my 2 cents on the subject. I just can't get by the fact that we have an aluminum skin riveted to a aluminum stud, so no matter what you put between the studs you still have a very good heat/cold radiator every 16 inches with only a 1/4 inch luan plywood covering them. I'm tempted to loose a 1/2" of ceiling height and a inch of width and add a 1/2 inch of homasote board where feasible. That with some insulated curtains, I'm thinking would be the most effective. It's still alot of work any way you look at it. Dave

"I'm tempted to loose a 1/2" of ceiling height and a inch of width and add a 1/2 inch of homasote board where feasible. "

We were thinking of doing something like that too.