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3/23 |
Well it seems my 36 year old fridge, Dometic 8 cubic foot, gave up! I think I am going to replace it with a smaller college dorm type a/c only. I need more dry storage room anyway. I wonder where I might get some cabinet doors, or drawers similar to mine to go under or above the new fridge?? Mine are the dark cherry, or walnut stain. 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | ||
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8/19 |
AC only refrigerator leaves out dry, or urban camping, unless you are planning to operate the generator constantly. AC 110 units are not as efficient as the 3 way refrigerator in boats and motor homes. Smaller dorm refrigerator will also require you to switch to the more potent "Craft Beer" since your space is limited. One craft beer is like 3 "weenie light" beers. | |||
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3/23 |
You may want to use an under-counter frig. These have a fan and ventilation so they can be inset in a closed space. Mine has a small freezer in the box with a defrost tray below and the frig shelves below. It holds 90 beers and two 1/2 gallons of ice cream. The freezer is too short to hold a full gallon but will take the two 1/2 gallons with the ice trays as well. | |||
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4/08 |
If you do any boondocking you will grow to hate that AC refrigerator. I've been there and done the AC thing. Never again. Friend of mine sold his MH after installing an AC refrigertor and tried dry (boondocking) camping. '92 Barth Breakaway - 30' 5.9 Cummins (6B) 300+ HP 2000 Allison Front entrance | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
As usual, there s no simple answer here. It all depends on your desired use. If you are on the grid most of the time and make short hauls over the road any AC unit will work fine, especially if you keep the frig full and don't open when not running. I would concentrate on the higher end models with more insulation and more efficient compressor designs. If you intend to dry camp, you will have to run your genny a while every couple hours to keep it cold. There are some high end European models that use extreme insulation and eutectic compounds to retain cold temps. Very pricy but some are even 12VDC and can be run with solar cells in the right locations. There are some concerns with the LP adsorbtion frig designs and fires. While frig fires are in fact one of the common causes of coach fires, I would not discount them. Like housefires and wood burning stoves, it is all about maintenance and inspection. I can personally vouch for many LP frig that are close to 50 years old in hunting camps, etc. Never once heard of a fire. The one at my deer camp is over 25 yrs old, perfect condition. OTOH, if the flue is full of acorns or spiderwebs, or exposed to corrosive sea spray/road grime, with loose wires flopping around and the frig is enclosed as in a coach, a fire could be easy. No one size fits all solution here. Check your PMs... 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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3/23 |
Having been an engineer at both Dometic and Norcold, I am reasonably acquainted with absorption refrigeration. I think 36 years well exceeds the normal life expectancy. I do not think I will be doing much dry camping anymore, however I did put a 110 unit in my old Winnebago if I was going to dry camp I filled the freezer with those cold pack bricks they would refreeze when I had 110 and cool for quite a long time when I didn't, if I did not leave the door open for long periods or put in a lot of warm food or drinks. No room for frozen products of course. No doubt one is giving up versatility by not going with an absorption unit. Many of the extra high end coaches (NASCAR) do not use absorption units but few of those are ever used for dry camping. 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
I had forgotten your experience with Dometic. As you said, they do have finite lifespans but the usual failures I have seen were the gas controls and electric heating elements, both can be replaced easier and cheaper than a new one. Have yet to see one corrode through and lose charge in the climate around here. The one I have at camp is for residential off grid use. Full size, LP only. (EZ Freeze, Amish made) Good idea with the ice packs in the freezer. Stay cold for quite a while! 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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3/23 |
I think my fridge has a plugged internal tube, the electric element and gas system both still work, but no cooling. I have heard but never proved that one can shake or turn the unit upside down and open the ammonia tubes. The whole system is only gravity and thermal fed and there is no ammonia smell so no leak. Might just be wishful thinking though. I guess it is the anti-corrosion chemicals and rust that coagulate. 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
I have heard of inverting the unit after handling/tipping to allow bubbles to collect. My EZ Freeze manual said to leave it right side down for 2 hours, then upright prior to final installation. I have also heard of inverting for old units like yours that don't leak but have quit. My dad had one at their deer camp, quit working after many years. Tried the upside down thing and it works again. That said, I think this is more suited to the stationary units. Like you I believe there are deposits of solids that settle out after time. There seems to be some question as to the composition, ammonia and metals can react, esp copper. I think the stoppage is less likely on the mobile units that get shaken all the time. Prob still worth a try. Excellent graphic, BTW. Looks just like the real thing! I have spent time trying to explain how they work, that diagram is great. I usually compare to an old percolator with a fancy outside gravity return loop 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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3/23 |
The system only can produce about 200 BTU under the best of conditions, so they need a lot of insulation to keep cool stuff and that's why they take so long to initially get cold. 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
I can't see you stuck with an AC only model, you will miss dry camping. Besides, you spent too much money on the Nose already. I have the solution. Here is the front of that unit. Dometic model RM 45a circa late 70's. It will be almost OEM for your 82. It is working and it needs a good home. It's not free, it will cost you a six pack of COLD beer. I just hate to see you or Bob settling for warm beer. 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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8/19 |
Steve you are correct. The member from Australia I skype with had success with turning his over. Keith the Nomad said you could actually her the ammonia draining down in the pipes. | |||
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3/23 |
Ok Steve sounds great, how about Corona or Modelo?? 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
Corona it is! We can meet in early Dec on my way south. 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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3/23 |
If you are going I65 south, perhaps we can meet around I80 and I65 somewhere. Going to Indianapolis is several hours longer for me. However, lets do what is best for you. 1971 24 ft Barth Continental P30 chassis 350 engine | |||
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