On my recent trip stopping in a warm climate for the night, I found my bed platform and bedding was very warm preventing me from using it for several hours. Anyone have any solutions to bleed the heat out of the engine compartment or insulation that would prevent engine heat from transferring upward into the above platform bed? On other forums, people seem to have a storage space under the bed to insulate but my bed platform has immediate access thru a panel to the engine compartment. The couch worked fine for those hours before bed area cooled. I suppose if it was 20 degrees outside, it wouldn't be a problem but outside was 80, even at 2100 that night.. I did do a search but couldn't find any info. I think this has been discussed before. If anyone has a link to that thread, feel free to post.. Thanks..

Two solutions, Mike!
1. Do your traveling when it is colder and you will appreciate the warmer bed.
2. Run the generator to power the roof air and turn the bedroom air to 45 degrees. The bedroom can double for a meat locker also. Keep the bedroom door closed.

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Bet you had a big grin when you had got home safe and tired.

roof air won't solve the heat problem coming from below... Do all pushers have just a thin panel separation between the bed platform and engine compartment? I mean its just a 3/4" piece of plywood being used as an entry port..covered with thin carpeting..

You will want some form of insulation on the engine side. Be sure there are no air gaps first.

My coach has some sort of foam material with a metallized skin, not sure how thick. I will investigate.

Sleep number bed with cooling mattress might work.

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If you search Nick Cagle's posts, I think he insulated the engine compartment on a rig he had. I am not sure if it was a Barth. On the other hand if you insulate the engine compartment, would you need to provide extra cooling fans for the power plant? What was your engine temperature running at when you were driving the 3208 thru the mountains?

wasn't running hot, maybe 180 or so..Only short runs of uphill, mostly gentle grades to Flagstaff/Continental Divide at 7300'.. I usually leave it running for 5 minutes before I shut it down.. Maybe not moving allows heat to go only upward..just guessing.. I'll check Cagle's posts..

Advantage of a Breakaway, engine access from the bedroom.
Disadvantage of a Breakaway, engine access from the bedroom. If connected to shore power you might add a fan to the engine compartment with a temp/timer control. Save that option insulation is the only option. Rusty, I remember touring your coach but don't remember the insulation level under the bed, chime in.

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:
If you search Nick Cagle's posts, I think he insulated the engine compartment on a rig he had.

Engine Compartment Insulation..

Thanks for the info Kevin...

a few (search page)links from the WOG Forum
WOG FORUM

From the Newell site:

another idea, Bilge blowers...

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:
Two solutions, Mike!
1. Do your traveling when it is colder and you will appreciate the warmer bed.
2. Run the generator to power the roof air and turn the bedroom air to 45 degrees. The bedroom can double for a meat locker also. Keep the bedroom door closed.

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Bet you had a big grin when you had got home safe and tired.

I would like to add a third and fourth solution to Kevin's argument

3. Trade in the rear engine diesel on a front engine gas or diesel
4. Find a spouse with very cold feet

My Regency's DD engine access was made of 3/4 inch plywood with at least 3/4 inch insulation with a reinforced edging.

Not sure what it was made off, however like Steve VW said the silver/metallic finish faced the engine, very little heat transmitted through into the bedroom.



Jim

Hi Mike: My Breakaway gets warm in the bedroom after a long drive when hot outside. My engine access is virtually the entire width and length of the bed, (short queen)but it is about 2 inches thick and HEAVY! I usually don't run the diesel long after stopping, just long enough for the EGT to drop below 300 degrees.

I have an insulated wall around the engine vertically as well. I have often thought about additional insulation for both noise (not bad) and heat.

I wouldn't trade a pusher for any reason.

http://www.radiantbarrier.com/physics-of-foil.htm

How Radiant Barrier Works: Heat Gain/Loss

http://www.buildagreenrv.com/d.../install-insulation/

The Cat 3208 stores a lot of heat. I noticed this on my last Barth.
The Cummins C not so. At first I figured Barth added more insulation on the 93 but after inspection it was the same as the 90 Regency.
As long as I pull in at dinner the bed is cool at sleepy time.

The Cat V8 is a big chunk of iron. The straight 6 Cummins weighs less I'll bet. Might be worth installing a small fan in the engine bay to clear the hot air...