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Roof work
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Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
posted
After a long hot summer it finally cooled down today so I climbed up on the roof to get to work on the stripping and re-sealing. I started in the worst area, in the rear between the 2 vents and found a real surprize. Scraping away at the built up mess revealed a secret underneath.
The problem: Somebody at sometime had the great idea to mount something, a rack or luggage carrier, to the roof using mollies in big holes through the skin, not the frame. When the unknown unit was removed,[probably at a high speed], the salution appeared to be a bunch of gunky sealent just poured over each hole, then a coating of white stuff to cover it all up. There are 3 rows side to side, a total of maybe 18 holes involved.
My solution: Acquire a sheet of aluminum, at least as thick as the skin, that will cover the entire area. Clean the roof off as well as possible, then using a sealent such as 5200, or whatever the aluminum equivilent may be, seal the edges and a thorough zig-zag throughout the middle, rivit the perimeter and fields through the frame members, and coat the whole shebang with a good roof coating. I'm wide open to suggestions, sealer gauge of aluminum, rivits, or anything else.
I feel this will not only eliminate the entire hole problem, but give me a strong platform in the area.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3495 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
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My coach has 1/4" aluminum diamond plate and no rivets. It was bonded with careful sealant beads and then the edges were finished with self leveling roof sealer. No leaks and strong.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Danny, when you figure out what way you want to go, get with me for a price on aluminum. I should be able to beat anyone elses. If you want to go first class we can get Ryan at work to weld it down. That won't be cheap tho!



W4JDZ
 
Posts: 567 | Location: Warrenton, N.C. | Member Since: 03-27-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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1. Best for everything: Diamond plate held down with 5200.

2. Next best for sealing and support: The platform you describe.

3. To cover holes and add some strength and support: 3 strips held down with 5200.

4. To just cover holes: 18 discs held down with 5200. A hole saw without the mandrel will do it. If I were still working, I would cut you some from scrap on the Rotex.

Anyone priced MH-size diamond plate?


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sounds like a great place for lawnchairs at 'Dega


1999 Airstream Safari 25'
2007 Toyota Tundra
1987 Yamaha YSR toads
 
Posts: 328 | Location: Sovereign Republic of Texas-Beaumont | Member Since: 01-15-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
posted Hide Post
Thanks all. Ed, we are just outside turn 3 and in the flightline of the airport, and we have often set up lawnchairs to watch the planes take off after the race. A little extra metal would make me feel a lot better up there. If I can get away with no holes, just adhesive, that would be great. I just dread having a piece of sheet metal flying off the roof on the interstate.
Whatever I use will be 74"x34" and flat. Diamond Plate sounds good, if it's affordable. If Doug can get SS would there be any problems like electrolosis?


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3495 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
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quote:
If Doug can get SS would there be any problems like electrolosis?

Danny,
We had a pretty good session on differing metals a while back and I was surprised to find that electrolysis will occur between aluminum and SS. I sometimes try to solve problems in a way that will not only fix the defect, but upgrade the rig. In that vein, could the installation of a sunroof solve the problem? How big is the area?

When I had holes in the side of my Barth from moving the awning, I solved that by putting adhesive reflectors over them.




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2228 | Location: Laurel Park, NC | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
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Aluminum diamond plate comes in 4 x 10 sheets from the mill. 11 gauge is an appropriate thickness for general reinforcement but you can go up to 1/4". If you can find anyone with a tax license as a business you can get the industrial pricing from a metal supply company.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
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I'm not really looking for a platform to use, just a good cover over the holes. The sheet will go fron vent to vent and just inside the rails on the sides. You can see what a mess it is and throwing a good cover over the whole thing should be the easiest and cleanest fix.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3495 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
Picture of Moonbeam-Express
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Danny,

There is a metalized roofing tape used in the trucking business to seal and patch over the road trailers. You could easily patch those areas with tape, or rivet down sheet metal and then seal the edges with this tape. I wish I could tell you the name of it, but it is kind of like metalized bituthene.




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2228 | Location: Laurel Park, NC | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Danny, see if that welding company is still on 41 in South Venice. That guy is great on welding aluminum. I can make you some 2" square pieces to use as weld patches for him to weld over the holes. Then your problems will be over permanently and you can put a nice white coat on the roof to keep things cool next summer.



W4JDZ
 
Posts: 567 | Location: Warrenton, N.C. | Member Since: 03-27-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
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Doug, my buddy Dean is one of the best welders there are, but that's not what I want. 24 little squares won't make the roof solider or be more cost or labor saving than one piece covering the whole are. Check on a sheet of aluminum or aluminum diamond plate 74"x34". It won't need any cut-outs or anything. If I can use 5200 to stick it down and seal it, I won't need welding or rivits, and my problem will be solved. Then the whole roof gets pressure cleaned and sealed with white stuff.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3495 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/23
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You might scribe a note on the plate that this is held down with 5200 to cover misc. previous mounting holes. At some time someone may want to remove the plate and knowing it is bonded with 5200 will help removal. I have not used the anti-5200 magic sauce but it is reputed to be effective.
 
Posts: 1085 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Member Since: 10-09-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Danny Z:
Doug, my buddy Dean is one of the best welders there are, but that's not what I want. 24 little squares won't make the roof solider or be more cost or labor saving than one piece covering the whole are. Check on a sheet of aluminum or aluminum diamond plate 74"x34". It won't need any cut-outs or anything. If I can use 5200 to stick it down and seal it, I won't need welding or rivits, and my problem will be solved. Then the whole roof gets pressure cleaned and sealed with white stuff.


Danny, what thickness are you looking for?



W4JDZ
 
Posts: 567 | Location: Warrenton, N.C. | Member Since: 03-27-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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quote:
Originally posted by ccctimtation:
You might scribe a note on the plate that this is held down with 5200 to cover misc. previous mounting holes. At some time someone may want to remove the plate and knowing it is bonded with 5200 will help removal.


I use heat whenever possible. It would seem that a sheet would be easily heated with a heat gun while a putty knife breaks the bond. I have alo sued an electric hot knife.

quote:
I have not used the anti-5200 magic sauce but it is reputed to be effective.


Is that DeBond Marine Formula?


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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