Linky

Thanks, Tom - I bookmarked that one, even though my doors are all OK for now.

I don't even have a Barth yet and I am making a note of this resource. I had thought of using closed cell rigid pvc foam and adhering aluminum skins to both sides. A simple plywood press, just use some weights, or a quick and dirty vacuum bag press would do just fine I think. That aluminum honeycomb is terrific stuff though. If someone had the time and interest they can also use phenolic honeycomb and aluminum skins, although a proper glue up will be a little tricky. You can always substitute fiberglass sheet material for the aluminum but since the Barth is alloy I rather prefer the aluminum.

Door replacement, Part Two
Earlier I said I bought aluminum honeycomb panels to replace the original ones that had begun to show blisters and pinholes. I removed all the doors and disassembled each frame. I found delamination across the bottom of four of the doors that was held in place by the channel that is the fame. I removed each of the skins from the panels as I removed them and discovered several things that I want to share.
1. Those weep holes along the bottom are acting as entry points for water rather than shedding water. It is clear that the lamination process creates a bond between the foam (which was faced with foil) and the luan and then both skins. In each case water has been sucked into the door through capillary action and from there the luan rots and then delaminates. This was across the bottom of all the doors. It is clear to me that drain holes will work when there is a way for the water to drain, just like the bottom of your car doors. They are hollow and water will run off easily. This is not the case in our doors - the only way water can travel from top to the drains holes is through the wood. So my suggestion is: Seal up the drain holes with epoxy after you have heated up the doors with either a radiant heater of a hair dryer. This will stop the wicking action and delay the continuation of the decay.
The other area that was most impacted was the docking light casting - Mine both leaked and water infiltrated from top to bottom. Keep in mind most of this can't be seen, but it is surely happening. My solution is above, new doors, no wood, no holes.

quote:

Originally posted by izomage:
I don't even have a Barth yet and I am making a note of this resource. I had thought of using closed cell rigid pvc foam and adhering aluminum skins to both sides. A simple plywood press, just use some weights, or a quick and dirty vacuum bag press would do just fine I think. That aluminum honeycomb is terrific stuff though. If someone had the time and interest they can also use phenolic honeycomb and aluminum skins, although a proper glue up will be a little tricky. You can always substitute fiberglass sheet material for the aluminum but since the Barth is alloy I rather prefer the aluminum.

I have worked with all three, and much of my material selection depends on what is available. They are all good. The phenolic honeycomb with aluminum skin is a pretty good compromise. Our airliner floors used to be alum honeycomb with alum skin. We switched to alum skinned phenolic honeycomb due to cheapness, lightness and easier working. The alum honeycomb seemed to be overkill. Now, they are two aluminum skins with butcher-block balsa in between. Pretty strong, too. Spike heels are their nemesis. I recently made a new hatch door for the Barth out of foam inside two aluminum skins. Pretty good. I found that lots of epoxy cement inside the edge channels really contributed to overall strength.

Our ski boat got a glass/phenolic honeycomb floor recently.

The enemy is always water. On my sailboat, and all the others in her class, the cuddy (roof) is balsa core with laid up fiberglass for structure. All works fine until the maufacturer decides to mount travellers, rails, vents and other stuff. Water finds its way in, the balsa rots and when you least need it (like a jibe under quatering wind with taught mainsail, the roof explodes because there is no longer a structural core. Same thing here - wood is a sponge and, its only purpose is to add structure to the thin laminates. With modern substrates, phenolic, structural foams, and honeycombs it should be avoided at all costs. I recently examined a new Country Coach. Their basement doors are single ply fiberglass and have no structural purpose. Just a light skin to look good. When you replace, use no wood. Your experience with the newer substrates and foams should be the norm.
Good luck with your boat. What kind is it? (Answer fast or the thread drift genie will attack us).
Tom

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
Good luck with your boat. What kind is it?

Ski boat is an Eliminator Monaco 21 ft bow rider. The photo has a little color shift, but it is light gray to black, just like the Barth Silver Anniversary colors. It was made for an El Segundo Raiders running back. It has a full roller 502 in it similar to the one in our Barth, but about twice the power, per the dyno. Well, the dyno was with dry headers. Being under a cover, I have to use a little water to keep things cool. I have always been a Muffler Nazi, but this one is unmuffled, and sounds just lovely. Even Susan likes it.

It got the new floor on account of the original plywood floor rotted from having too many wet skiers standing on it. What kind of idiots would build a ski boat without rot-proofing the floor? Almost all, it seems. When I researched it, only one manufacturer out here used treated plywood. My dad and I used copper napthanate on every boat we built back in the fifties. Seemed like a no-brainer, even to a kid.

Very nice, and no drain holes to wick water.
Merry Christmas

Well, now, there's a blantant violation of Lindsay's Law!

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Well, now, there's a blantant violation of Lindsay's Law!

Hmmm..........I see it as an affirmation of Lindsay's Law. It was in full force that day. Umm, so was Murphy's.

The Captain is always responsible, but on this one, the Captain got's a whole lotta excuses.

"The Captain is always right. Those wishing to dispute, please note the mistletoe attached to the Captain's coattails..."

Not sure if I missed it on here or not, but any hints on where to purchase replacement aluminum channels? The previous owner tried to do a patch job on a few doors but put them back together with L brackets.

Also, I'm trying to track down the two fuel doors. I know they are constructed differently than the other doors and any advice would be welcomed