SteveVW, I am sure your fireworks went off well and you are not in Jail..lol

Back to work on your insulation, keep your pants up! ..lol

I have to replace the vee-berth headliner, there's no insulation. I'm going to use polyester batting, no itch and no absorbtion. This also allows me to use as many layers as needed to fill since the depth goes from 0 to 3 inches. My resistance to starting is it needs to be sewn pretty accurately. Then pulled smoothly and stapled. When I removed the original the staples were nearly butted together.

Wow there sure seems to be a lot of headliner and insulation projects, I wonder if we are having a mass invasion of Barth roof aliens!!!

Got back to the ceiling project. Pulled the panel down, stuffed the driver side. Replaced panel, then filled in the middle section. I still need to get above the rear cabinets but the main room is done.



Remounted the vents and the center trim:



Now to replace the AC, that's what got this all started. The new Atwood will be installed soon.

I will bet you notice a big difference.

I wish my ceiling panels were as easy as yours to get down. All my panels go to the wall and on top of the cabinets so cabinets have to come out first.

Finally mostly finished the bedroom insulation. I stuffed the back of the center cabinets to the base of the radiused corner.



I stuffed the tops of the side cabinets to get the ouside corners.



Finished up with strips down the center. Finally got Atwood Air Command #2 installed. Works great! A couple more panels to replace and I'm done with this end.



As I walked down the hallway each time I noticed how hot the skylight recess was getting. I installed a piece of clear plexiglass above the ceiling trim. (see tape in photo) The double pane really cuts down on interior heat.



I have completed the rear 1/3 of the coach. Almost complete coverage, few gaps. I have to believe it will make a BIG difference. I will start from the front, working back, with the next phase of the insulation project.

Our Sovereign's roof leaked for 23 years, we finally gave up and went to an RV place a couple of years ago that sprayed on a lifetime roof. No more leaks and it added an insulating factor. Cooling her down is not an issue since we have three Atwood Air Commands but mostly run only two except for the hottest, most humid days.

When I went to the Barth factory in 1991 I was amazed that the only insulation used was the ReflecTec, especially with a 100% aluminum super-structure that gives up heat like a heat sink. It works OK until it loses its air charge after which it is just a radiant barrier.

I get a kick out of the folks who sell coating that claim it "insulates" the R=factor in that stuff is about .0001, what really takes place, it is a nice bright white and reflects the sun much better than anything else so not a bad thing.

Burt Rutan the airplane designer, once designed a fiberglass home built, he demanded it be painted bright white if you bought the kit. He said someone built one and painted it a very mild yellow tint, he monitored the temperature and said it was like 75F higher in part sunlight light over white. Imagine what silver or dirty whatever might do?

Well, praise the Lord and pass the ammunition. Got a wifi hotspot so we should be world wide again!

Arrived at Oakhaven last Monday. Got settled in and I started on projects again.

I took the TV down and opened the front compartment. Big open space with one layer of thin bubble insulation.





I put fiberglass across the front and the top of the space. Also installed in the roof about 6 feet back. The roof here is more difficult than the bedroom due to the cabinets on each side. Limits how far the ceiling panels will pull down. I used a stick and got the batts pretty close to the outside edges I think.

Geez, nice big open area, to bad it can not be used as storage. My Nose really hurts for storage area. How does Liz handle her winter home being torn apart??

If I put the TV on hinges like Jim did I would have more storage, but Liz would just fill it with more junk if I let her know it was there! (Good thing I have the VW for my stuff, not much room in the coach!)

(Liz is very good about the projects, but I only do one small area at a time.)

I finally got to the breaking point in dealing with roof leaks on our '93 Regency so I removed the entire ceiling. The result was a bath! The combined luan, foam and fabric backed vinyl was holding almost five gallons of water! I did not remove the cabinets. I removed all the bubble wrap and then traced every leak with a hose and several rain storms. Every one was due to the hollow rivets and the dissimilar corrosion to the rivets where the steel header bars were located in the front cap. I ran new wiring for ceiling mounted led lights and power for the crappy Dometic Brisk II. Then I added 1" aluminum faced insulation board from HD. I built the ceiling panels with Carbon Core honeycomb 3/8" sheets covered with 1/8" closed cell foam (the type used in Landau auto tops) and finally,new without fabric,backed vinyl. I use Velcro to mount the panels to the roof ribs and finish them off with crown moldings. The hoped for result is nothing to absorb water, ever, and a much quieter and cooler/warmer coach. Doing the same to our under construction '81 Glasnose. Plan on pictures as I get further along. Www.carbon-core.com

What a great job, I will be curious what your ole Nose reveals, when you repair it. Mine had some roof leaks also, I have temporally repaired them now , so I will know what a good fix will take.

An update for the 'Nose: Like many already know the windshield of the 'Nose has rivets connecting the aluminum top cap to the roof. The w/s gasket is fixed to the metal in its "C" channel. This one had a full bead of silicone across the top in an attempt to stop the leaks, but the silicone could not seal the deteriorating aluminum to the coach. When we removed the hollow rivets we found the aluminum was already gone in several areas leaving an impossible hole. The solution is to remove the w/s and open up the top where it is in contact with the steel framing and insert a fiberglass sheet about 3" wide across the top and then install closed end rivets above the gasket. We will bond the fiberglass with resin. That will be followed with a new fiberglass "eyebrow" to seal the rivets and create a way to shed water as a drip rail. The current problem is to find a new gasket since the old original is hard as a rock. Looking at Steele Rubber Products but have not yet found a replacement. If anyone has a source please share. We suspect it is universal on all Barth's of that vintage as the w/s are the same as the Regency of 1993.

My nose had similar leaking around the steel windshield frame, and the PO had tried to seal it with about a gallon of urethane sealant.

Closer inspection proved it did not leak, the leak was at the running lights above. As you pointed out the open rivets and wire holes were the real problem. I sealed them up and cut away as much of the globs of urethane as possible from around the windscreen, looks ok, but not great I also was thinking about a new rubber seal. I think it is a pretty standard part.