My EOM Atwood furnace was showing signs of age. Noisy fan, corrosion on vent pipe, often blew out in a strong wind. It is located under the sofa on the driver's side.

For ease of replacement, I ordered another Atwood unit. Same physical size. The original was 15,000 Btu and I felt a bit weak in below freezing temps, so I ordered a 20,000 Btu replacement.

Easy to replace. You can reuse the old door (mine is needing paint, especially on the inside.) Only 3 rivets on top and 3 on bottom to drill out to release the six metal tabs holding the unit to the frame.





Inside you unplug the Power/thermostat connector, disconnect the gas line, and remove the flex ducts. The unit slides right out. The new one has the LP connector on the left, the old one had it on the right. I had to move the flex line over to the left side. Slide in the new one, rivet the outside tabs, connect gas line, ducts and electrical connector.



I added the additional 4th duct in the center to get more uniform air flow. The new furnace is more quiet then the old one, both inside and out, also seems to heat more evenly. Easy job, good results.

While I was at it I replaced my OEM Kool-Matic fan with a new Fantastic Fan.



We had 17 degrees last Thursday, 20's Fri and Sat nights. Still need a heater! Axle work comes soon.

Looks like your job wasn't to hard. I had to go thru this a few years ago, My furnace had burned a hole thru the plenum as the air ducts were not sized correctly (3) and one was completely blocked.

I replace it with a two stage unit. 20K/40k. Works OK but the digital thermostat can not be programmed. It has a 3 degree spread on/off and is very uncomfortable. Fan runs a long time after the burner shuts down and will blow cooler air for a short time. Can't change the thermostat to a different style as it is married to the digital control unit in the furnace.

With the crappy insulation of the Breakaway, it cycles often, temperature ups and downs. When outside is below 40 degrees, the fan never shuts but the burner cycles continously. Thinking about going to hydronic heating later.

Hey Steve, hope you are saving all these parts!!!!

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:

I replace it with a two stage unit. 20K/40k. Works OK but the digital thermostat can not be programmed. It has a 3 degree spread on/off and is very uncomfortable. Fan runs a long time after the burner shuts down and will blow cooler air for a short time. Can't change the thermostat to a different style as it is married to the digital control unit in the furnace.

With the crappy insulation of the Breakaway, it cycles often, temperature ups and downs. When outside is below 40 degrees, the fan never shuts but the burner cycles continously. Thinking about going to hydronic heating later.

I feel your pain. I was surprised and disappointed to find that Barth didn't insulate their later coaches. Mine at least has fiberglass insulation but could use more. My furnace ran too much for my liking, that was why I went with the larger unit. The extra hot air duct and a larger opening for cold air return helped even the circulation. Meanwhile I added Plexiglass panes to all the large windows to make double glazed, made a big difference. Still needs more insulation.

My furnace has a separate thermostat. I replaced it with a generic digital Honeywell. It holds +/- 1 degree. Also has provision for "anticipator" function. Much better than OEM. Too bad yours is integrated.

The other furnace is in the bedroom and also has a new thermostat. Between the 2 furnaces I can now evenly heat the coach down in the 20's without constant cycling.

One might want to cover up that hole to the outside with a screen to protect from dirtdaubers building during summertime (wasp building dirt tunnels)

I have double pane windows and it is a bit surprising how much heat/cold it transmitted thru the aluminum mounting surround. The double pane windows are great for noise,

I hang inside a piece of insuating bubble foam over the windshield. That of course in not double pane and it just bakes with the sun on it and with the curtains closed will be running water by morning from the condensation.

The other problem that has developed is the entry door. It is now sagging and there is a gap at the top. Certainly doesn't help.

I have looked at the thermostat and the reporting signals it sends to the furnace and I think I can make an adapter to use a standard digital thermostat. It will just take more investigation and work.