While doing the fuel tank filler relocation, I had a good chance to look at the steering components to try to determine why there was no "on center" feel.

First thing that I noticed was the drop link and tie rod arm were not at the same angle, that means that the steering response turning left and right would have a different response rate from center. At that point I stopped and disassembled everything, taking note and marking things where they were for future reference. There were factory marks and it WAS set to those!

The steering wheel center was not at the center of the steering box rotation!

As mentioned the drop link was not at the same angle as the tie rod link (from the right side king pin.

The stop adjust of the right wheel was only 1/2 way out and completely out on the left suggesting different turning radius right and left.

When I previously replaced the steering box (because of a serious leak, I replaced it in exact same position as the one removed so whatever the steering components were set to, after replacing the box, it was as before. I took the Barth to an alignment shop and they commented that the steering box (rebuilt) had too much slop so they tightened it up. They also said something was wrong and suggested the king pins were binding. I drove it many miles this way and it was a hand full!

I started to re-assemble and the first thing I did was to make sure the box rotational center was exactly at the center of the steering wheel rotation. I immediately found that going thru center, the box got very difficult to turn and remembered that the alignment shop had tightened it but they adjusted it off enter so it was way off. I re-adjusted the box to specs and it was much better.

Then I addressed the angles of the drop link to the tie rod arm and found that when the angles where the same, at near full right, the tie rod hit the back of the steering box before full rotation of the box! Now I know why the wheel stops where set to a different position left to right and why the drop link angle was different. Even so, when trying to get the arms in a parallel plane, the tie rod would not be long enough to safely secure the tie rod ends.

I flip the drop link over as it attached to the steering box so the ball joint was on top of the drop link, this would prevent the tie rod from hitting the back of the box.

To address the angle of the drop link and the tie rod link, I took the steering box out, re fabricated the steering box mount to the axle so that it is moved over and I didn't need a longer tie rod and still could maintain the proper engagement of the tie rod ends into the tie rod.

After all this, I check the stops and adjusted them so that the wheel stop would be contacted about an 1/8th of a turn from the end of the box rotation. Both are now equally extended.

I later check the toe and found that they had adjusted it to 3/8th inch toe in which was WAY to much, backed it out to 1/8th inch, much better.

After this last 2000 mile trip, what a joy to drive. It tracks and has the much wanted on center feel, it isn't quite "on rails" but I certainly don't expect that with the very large over hang and weight that I have in the back.

Looking forward to the next trip at the end of September!

I have some drawings that I am finishing which would make what I did much more clear and will post after all settles down.

Finally! That's good news - you've been fighting that for a long time.