I got 2x220AH 6V Interstate golf cart batteries for $75 each (2-1/2 years ago). I had to redo the holdowns, but all else was easy.

Just installed a Hellwig anti-sway bar. It really improves the handling characteristics. Also pic of propane tank.

ed thats a sexy battery compartment!!!!

I have installed custom cold air induction which feeds under the right front bumper. Also unrelated to the air induction, the air conditioning compressor does engage and has been converted to R134. Also, I just installed a new MSD distributor cap & rotor, NGK plugs, and plug wires.

Ed, what material did you use for the hose from the air box to the air cleaner? Would you take a pic of the air cleaner installation?

Looks like dryer duct...

I just replaced the front brake hoses, along with the master cylinder, 2 hard brakes, left front caliper, and added Speed Bleeders on all 4 calipers. I pulled the Hydroboost unit and replaced the power steering hoses and greased the joints. The master cylinder rear-aft bowl has a metric fitting and the distribution block/manifold has a standard fitting-Napa has the metric conversion for this hard line. O'Reilly and Autozone carry the hard lines, but can't help you a lot-with fittings. It takes a while to bleed all the air out of the power steering pump. The bolts that hold the master cylinder to the Hydroboost pump have 2 way threads-remove the nuts by turning to the left; the bolts themselves have reverse threads and both must be removed to pull master cylinder. It takes about 2.5 quarts of brake fluid to bleed all 4 wheels.

I was planning on installing a deep Hughes Performance extra capacity transmission pan, but it wont fit. The transmission crossmember blocks the rear pointy bit on the pan. I flushed all of the fluid even went a quart over with the last flush and installed a drain plug in the stock pan. The torque for the pan bolts is 80 in.lbs. or 6.7 ft.lbs. The outflow/discharge side on the transmission cooler is on the driver's side.

I'm having a little trouble visualizing this.

How deep is the Hughes pan inside?

Could a little welding or cutting make it work?

It's 3" deep on the inside and it's cast aluminum with about a 1/4" flange. I think some cutting and welding in some reinforcement would work. It would be ideal if there was a tubular steel aftermarket trans. bracket. If you look at the Hughes pan, the interference point is near the drain plug.

Ed, do you tow your Yamaha four wheels down?
Jim

quote:

1987 Yamaha YSR

Whoops, just found out that a YSR is a motorcycle. Guess it doesn't have four wheels.
Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Ed Chevalier:
It's 3" deep on the inside

Ed, how deep is your steel pan?

It's 3" also, but the thickness of the aluminum pan along with a little different radius cause the interference.

Somewhere, I have a pan similar to the Hughes.

It looks like cutting the round protuberance off the back end of the pan behind the drain plug and then welding a flat plate to cover the opening would avoid removing much material from the cross member. I am reluctant to cut the cross member too much because there is a gear vendors hanging on the back, which adds more stress than the OEM designers were looking at.