Hi,
I think a few people here are working with some recently acquired "Projects" built on the P-30 Chassis.

I think this is the right radiator fora P-30 with a 454, but check the numbers yourself.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...?hash=item1e5a560863

431338 would be over $300 from Summit.

Happy Motoring,
Matt

Read that the pic is not the actual part. I was going to say it's not even close to an 81 Motorhome. If you know it's right for your coach it's a heck of a deal. I paid a lot more for a "re-core", but it came with a lifetime gaurantee from the local rad man who's been here for 40 years or so and I know where he eats breakfast.

Griffin Thermal Products produces four core radiators for custom applications and they will make a new high efficiency aluminum one for any coach. Just give them the application and dimensions with location of the inlet and outlet and you can greatly improve cooling. www.griffinrad.com
Tom

I called our local O'Reilly's auto parts store and the same part number was $221.00

Kive

Like Danny Z I went to my local radiator shop and paid 425.00 for them to rebuild/recore my radiator with a lifetime warranty and I know where to find him if I need him.

I believe I paid $410, so we're in the same ballpark. I'd have to look it up but I don't remember anybody here saying I got ripped off.
Getting it out and back in was the hard part.

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:

Getting it out and back in was the hard part.

Danny, I see you had the front lifted. How did you remove the radiator, from underneath or back over the top of the engine?

quote:

, I see you had the front lifted. How did you remove the radiator, from underneath or back over the top of the engine?

It had to come out the bottom, which is why the front is lifted. Luckily, I have a "guy" with a towing service to come over and give a lift so we could set the super duty jacks under the frame. The metal front ends might be different, but this was the only way the rad was coming out of this coach. Still looking for the pic Timmy took of me waving out the window, knowing BillNY or somebody could photoshop it into a really radical pic. I'll work on it tonight and see what I can find.
I know you can't see it from this pic but the rear wheels WERE chocked, even though the driveway is near level.

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:

quote:

, I see you had the front lifted. How did you remove the radiator, from underneath or back over the top of the engine?

It had to come out the bottom.

Wow. That sounds difficult.

Danny, what size tires do you have 16" or 19.5"?

quote:

Danny, what size tires do you have 16" or 19.5"?

They're 19.5s Ed
Not sure why bill would say it sounds hard to drop it out the bottom. I know that not everyone has a wrecker handy to lift it up so you can put the jack stands under it, but I can't even imagine dismantling everything it would take to get it out the top. I guess maybe the Thetford could stay in place but I wouldn't bet on it .

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:
Not sure why bill would say it sounds hard to drop it out the bottom.

I've dropped several radiators out of the bottom as the amount of stuff on the top, or even in front of it, made access even more difficult.

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:

Not sure why bill would say it sounds hard to drop it out the bottom. I know that not everyone has a wrecker handy to lift it up so you can put the jack stands under it, but I can't even imagine dismantling everything it would take to get it out the top.

I remove the fan and clutch, alternator, AC compressor and the air cleaner stud. And maybe the thermostat neck, I can't remember for sure.

I use a piece of Masonite as a skid to avoid fin damage as slide it up, back and over the engine.

One man job.

Re-installation requires Susan to just guide it in from the front as I position it from behind.

I have a new aluminum cross flow Griffin radiator for a big block Chevy that we don't need. It has two rows of 1" core tubes and is constructed for a remote filler expansion tank (no filler neck on the unit). This unit will retail for over $500 and we will sell it for $325 plus shipping. It has never been installed and is specifically for the 454 Chevy engine. If you are interested take all your measurements on your P-30 and contact me and we will check out the details for you. These are 30% more efficient than stock brass and copper units and are cross flow rather than vertical flow.