I would like to replace a few of the rivets on the side of the coach. These are the original buck rivets and I don't want to use pop rivets. Anybody got any suggestions that don't include taking out the interior.
I would like to keep the original look.

Thanks, Nick

I know of no easy fix, but using pop rivets, then filling the recess with epoxy and sanding smooth is an "almost" fix.

This is all info that I've copied from searching this forum on this subject; maybe it'll help ya.

barth used (2) sized 5/16 wall. 3/8 trim head size .38-106-02-16 head is .375 or 3 /8. grip range is .o47 to .141 .38-105-02-13 grip range is.o47 to .o78 .you can change the grip range by changing the # 02 03 04 05 .call 1-800-634-4293 catalog m-100 page P-4 aluminum drive rivets use hammer to set pin flush with rivet p.s grip is total thickness of sheets. but you have a range .this rivet will look just like the ones you have know yours carl

Barth uses some aviation-grade aluminum material that may be available at you local (small airfield) aviation sheetmetal shop. Broken ladders, roof racks can be spliced (not welded) using standard aluminum alloy tubing. Likewise, all skin rivets are aviation-grade aluminum alloy. Ask for AN425-ADx-y rivets where x-y is the size. X is the diameter in 32th"; Y is the length in 16th". Ex: AN425-AD3-4 is a 3/32" dia. rivet that is 1/4" long. Also, it is a good idea to replace all hardware (Bolts, nuts, washers, screws, etc.) with aviation grade so-called "AN" stock (AN = Army/Navy designator). These hardware are all cadmium plated and strength guaranteed.



If you can pull the skin back enough to get a thin nylon washer between the skin and the steel bracing, you'll greatly reduce galvanic reaction....Plus make sure you use pop rivets with ALUMINUM mandrels... steel mandrels inside of aluminum rivets is a sure-fire short circuit and speeds up the process.
Also, any exposed steel that can be wire brushed and primed will help prevent steel rust particles from reacting with the aluminum......

I'm in the process of re-skinning the headlight panels on my unit. Upon removal of the old skin, it was obvious that galvanic corrosion had done its job - three steel braces around the headlight buckets were totally rusted through. I welded in some fishplate reinforcement, sandblasted & primed w/ Rustoleum red. I also covered the front of the square steel tubing with aluminum foil faced duct tape. (I may not be able to totally STOP galvanic reaction, but I've given it something else to gnaw on for the next decade or so.) Moisture, road salt and steel against aluminum makes my Barth a 24 foot long battery - just got to learn to live with it...........

quote:

Originally posted by Steve WI:
I'm in the process of re-skinning the headlight panels on my unit. Upon removal of the old skin, it was obvious that galvanic corrosion had done its job - three steel braces around the headlight buckets were totally rusted through. I welded in some fishplate reinforcement, sandblasted & primed w/ Rustoleum red. I also covered the front of the square steel tubing with aluminum foil faced duct tape. (I may not be able to totally STOP galvanic reaction, but I've given it something else to gnaw on for the next decade or so.) Moisture, road salt and steel against aluminum makes my Barth a 24 foot long battery - just got to learn to live with it...........

I found the same issue with my Breakaway, but the skin wasn't affected and there was still steel there, so I ground it out, acid primed it, three coats cold galvanizing spray, and two coats epoxy.