For those who have installed headers on a P-30, and from the standpoint of a non-mechanic. How big of a job is this. What else do you have to remove to do it?

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"Work hard and save, so that someday you can support those who didn't"

1985 28 foot Regal
Dave and Deb Bowers

Awaiting the answers with anticipation myself. I can give you first-hand information in a week or so. Play-by-play will cost ya though. I want a one-year free membership to the Barthmobile forums!

Ron make that 10 years, as long as I'm here your in buddy......

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"Work hard and save, so that someday you can support those who didn't"

1985 28 foot Regal
Dave and Deb Bowers

I had a Gibson system installed this summer and finally took it out yesterday to drive to the storage lot. I will say the difference is amazing. Aceleration was much much improved and as I only drove it 40 miles to gramdma house (my storage area) I didn't get a chance to check fuel mileage. Back to your question, I have in my area a fellow that has a company, A-Z Mobile Repair, that comes to my residence and will perform almost anything u need done. He installed the Gibson system in approx 4 hours from underneath the coach. Every thing fit like a glove - as I recall he had to pull the oil dipstick but that was all. I used PB Blaster for 2 days prior and everything came off like it should. It was a tight fit, but those skinny guys had no problem. Biggest hassle was the air tubes on the original headers, a little tough to break loose. I felt the Gibson was engineered for my rig - everything fit, and no missing parts. On this particulas trip, A-Z also installed a steering stabilizer ($27 on eBay) and an IPD front stalilizer, ($140 on eBay)and A-Z charged me 6 hours @ $70/hour to do it all. I thought it was very fair.

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Russell and Donna
1988 33' Barth Regal
Gibson Exhaust, Bilsteins, ipd sway bar

OK, I'll take the ten! :-)

Another testimonial for PB Blaster. I plan to apply it liberally for a couple of days prior myself. I am pleased to hear that there was a noticable improvement.

Now we know that the Gibsons and the Thorleys are well fitted (billh).

Took mine to the RV place today for a rear hub/axle seal replacement and instructed them to check out the front bearings also (based on Dave's recommendation).

Dave, a search of this site for "thorley" or "headers" should cover a lot. If there is an unanswered question, fire away.

But in general, it is not a bad job. My advice to a non-mechanic would be to soak the manifold bolts and AIR fittings yourself and pay a mechanic to loosen them so you don't break anything. Once they are broken loose, tighten them up and drive it home.

Be sure wires and things are not too close to the new headers.

Read my post on engine compartment heat re: heat sleeves on ignition wires.

its about a 4 hour job provided you can get the old parts off without breaking things. You have to take the front tires off. The break line for the rear, the starter, and have lots of patients. I used thorley and they make a big improvement.
Jamie 89 Regal

I did it without removing the front wheels. Jacked the front end up with the lifts and went to work. Removing and re-installing the oil stick tube was the only thing that I completely failed. No brake line interference but starter wire needs to be sleeved for heat protection. IMHO, ,,YMMV. :-)

ron, oh ron, you are forgetting to BRAG on your CHROME dip stick, and all that EXTRA power it gave you. I bet at the drag strip you will put BLACK tape over it to prevent someone from seeing your secret. Remember though, "THEY SAY IF IT GOES FAST PROTEST, AND IF IT DOESN'T, CHROME IT".