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Rims... Help !
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Posted
Ok, lets see if I can upload pics right.

I am having a few issues with the Rims on my 1977 21 foot Barth. It is a Chevy 1 ton chassis.

The 16" rims it currently has come with the oval bolt on valve stems and I had issues in the past of shops not able to do work on them. So i am looking to change to normal press in valve stems.



Above is what I have as stock, The holes around the studs are tight to the studs, as is the center hole to the Hub.



The rim above, I only have one of, The holes around the studs seem normal and tight. Yet the center hole around the hub seems loose and larger then it should be by about 1/8"



The above rim is the one I hope will work. I just picked up 4 of them from the wrecking yard. What worries me is the holes that go over the studs are a little bigger on these, by about a mm. but the center hole seems nice and tight to the hub and still holds the rim centered. Below is a closer view of the loose stud rims.



Are these rims Ok to use on my barth ?

Yes, i do have the backing plates for the lug nuts to press into, just didn't have them on for the Pic.
 
Posts: 14 | Stompin' Grounds: Kamloops BC | Member Since: 06-21-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 4/12
Picture of Steve VW
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I believe if the center hole is tight/centered the wheel should be usable, if the lug plates are tight and torqued to spec.

Any part #'s on either rim style? It would be good to verify the replacements are rated for the heavy RV loading.


8607-3346-33TFPOB
86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle
Chev P3(7) 454 carb
 
Posts: 467 | Stompin' Grounds: Kalkaska, MI | Member Since: 02-04-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/12
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IMHO lug nuts with a taper and wheels with a counter sunk hole will align the wheel and not depend on the hub. but then again I dunno.


29' 1977parted out and still alive in Barths all over the USA
 
Posts: 638 | Stompin' Grounds: Floral City FL | Member Since: 04-25-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
Corey and Cheri
Picture of Moonbeam-Express
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I would ask a truck tire store what is acceptable as far as tolerances. Maybe they are OK, but I would worry that they would shuck back and forth on acceleration and braking. Why not have the oval holes welded and drill new holes for press in valve stems on your old wheels? The tire stores would be none the wiser and as far as I'm concerned it would do nothing to hurt the integrity of the wheels.




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2226 | Stompin' Grounds: Spring Hill, FL  | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Captain Doom
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There are two types of wheel: Hub-piloted and Stud-piloted. 16" wheels are usually hub-piloted, meaning the studs/lugnuts are just used to secure the wheel, not to center it. But as Corey mentioned, check on it.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway
MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP
Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers (Casey and Nelson)
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Posts: 5499 | Stompin' Grounds: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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